Saturday, October 27, 2018

Costume Designs by Alexandre Benois for the Ballets Russes
Wearable Art

Marie-Therese Wisniowski

Preamble
There are a number of posts on this blogspot that are centered on the costumes of the Ballets Russes. For your convenience I have listed them below:
Costumes of the Ballets Russes
Costume Designs by Léon Bakst
Costume Designs by Alexandre Benois for the Ballets Russes


Introduction [1]
Alexandre Nikolaevich Benois was born May 4, 1870 in St. Petersburg, Russia into the family of Italian, Russian and French ancestry. His father, Nikolai Leontievich Benois, was a famous architect of the Imperial Mariinsky Opera House in St. Petersburg who built many other historic landmarks. His two brothers were professional artists, and young Alexandre Benois was brought up in a highly cultural environment, conducive to the development of his own many talents. The family lived in their private 4-story mansion next to the Imperial Mariinsky Opera House in St. Petersburg, Russia.

Alexandre Benois.

He studied art at the Imperial Academy of Fine Arts, then he studied law and graduated from the Law Department of St. Petersburg University. There he developed a life-long friendship with his fellow law student Sergei Diaghilev. They formed a circle of artists and art connoisseurs known as 'Mir Iskusstva' (World of Art). Benois lived in Paris and Versailles for 3 years from 1896-99, where he substantially researched Louis the XIV, the "Sun King", and his epoch. Benois made an important contribution to the history of France by his discovery of the memoirs of the Count Louis de Saint-Simon, and carried unprecedented research of that period. Back in St. Petersburg he published his acclaimed illustrations to 'The Queen of Spades' and 'Bronze Horseman' by Alexander Pushkin.



In 1899-1907 Benois collaborated with Sergei Diaghilev on a number of art shows. They produced the first international art show of artists from Scandinavian countries and Russia in St. Petersburg in 1900. The largest portrait show was organized in 1904 in Tavrichesky Palace in St. Petersburg. That show also included the research of over 7 thousand portraits in various traditional and contemporary styles and involved art historians, restorers, and artists from many Russian cities. Benois also collaborated with Diaghilev on the publication of art catalogs, books and the 'Mir Iskusstva' art magazine, which promoted artistic innovations and challenged the existing order. Their book 'History of Russian Painting' (1904) became the first comprehensive work on the subject.

Benois was the scenic director of the Imperial Mariinsky Theatre from 1901-1905. He was also the co-founder of the "Seasons Russes" with Sergei Diaghilev in 1909. He created exquisite designs for the ballets "Giselle" by Adolphe Adam, "Petruchka" by Igor Stravinsky and "Les Sylphides" on the music of Frédéric Chopin with choreography by Mikhail Fokin. Back in Russia Benois collaborated with Stanislavsky and Vladimir Nemirovich-Danchenko on productions at the Moscow Art Theatre (MKhAT).

Benois witnessed degradation of the Russian society through the communist revolutions and the Civil War in the 1st quarter of the 20th century. In 1918-26 he was the Curator of Paintings at the Hermitage Museum, partly because the famous 'Madonna Benois' by Leonardo DaVinci, which used to be his family's property, was now at the Hermitage. In 1926, he left the Hermitage and Russia for good. His friendship and work with Sergei Diaghilev continued in Paris.

'Madonna Benois' by Leonardo DaVinci

Benois was involved in publications of more than 100 art books and editions. He worked on productions of about 200 ballets and operas all over the world. His international background and inter-disciplinary education enabled him to create the unparalleled grand-scale cross-cultural and cross-genre project of the "Seasons Russes" together with Sergei Diaghilev. Benois' contribution as an artist, designer, director, producer, and an art historian made significant impact on theatre, opera, ballet, art, and art publishing of the 20th century. His comprehensive 'Memoirs' were published in 1955. He died on February 9, 1960 in Paris, and was laid to rest in Cimetiere des Batignolles, 8 Rue Saint-Just, Paris, France.


Costume Designs by Alexandre Benois for the Ballets Russes [2-3]

Costume design for the Coachman (1921).
Media: Water color, Indian ink and pencil on paper.
Size: 42.8 x 26 cm.

Costume design for a Merchant's Wife (1911).
Media: Water color, Indian ink and pencil on paper.
Size: 31.4 x 23.6 cm.
Serge Lifar Collection, gift of Simone Del Duca.

Costume design for the Second Merchant (1911).
Double-face design.
Media: Water color, Indian ink and pencil on paper.
Size: 31.4 x 23.6 cm.
Serge Lifar Collection, gift of Simone Del Duca.

Costume design for Petrouchka (1943).
Media: Water color, pencil and ink on paper.
Size: 25 x 16.5 cm.
Archives SBM.

Costume design for the Magician (1943).
Media: Water color, pencil and ink on paper.
Size: 25 x 16.5 cm.
Archives SBM.

Costume design for the Ballerina (1943).
Media: Water color, pencil and ink on paper.
Size: 25 x 16.5 cm.
Archives SBM.

Costume design for the Blackamoor (1943).
Media: Water color, pencil and ink on paper.
Size: 25 x 16.5 cm.
Archives SBM.

Headress for Nicolas Zverev as the Blackamoor (1920).
Media: Green velvet embroidered with braid and furnished with feathers.
On permanent loan to SBM.

Costume for the Ballerina (1920).
Media: Velvet, silk, cotton fabric and fur.
Archives SPSMTM.

Costume design for the Mummer-Devil (1921).
Media: Water color, Indian ink and pencil on paper.
Size: 34.2 x 22.2 cm.
Archives MBT.

Costume for a spirit if the hours (ca. 1909).
From Le Pavillon d'Amide.

Alexandre Benois and Leon Bakst.
Overdress from the costume for Aurora (ca. 1922).
from Le Mariage d'Aurore.

Cloak from costume for a harpist (ca. 1909).
from Le Pavillon d'Armide.

Costume for a spirit of the hours (ca. 1909).
from Le Pavillon d'Armide.

Jacket from a costume for a musician (ca. 1909).
from Le Pavillon d'Armide.

Costume for Petrouchka (ca. 1911).

Jacket from costume for The Hunt in Act I (ca. 1910).
from Giselle.


References:
[1]http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0072216/bio

[2] R. Bell, Ballets Russes - The Art of Costume, National Gallery of Australia (2009).

[3] Editors J.E. Bowlt, Z. Tregulova and N. R. Giordano, A Feast of Wonders, Skira Editore, Milano (2009).

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