Preamble
For your convenience I have listed other posts in this series:
Paisley Patterns - Part I
Paisley Patterns - Part II
Introduction
Paisley has been more or less fashionable for the last decade, but there was a particular upsurge of interest over the 1988-89 winter season. Suddenly not just Paisley patterns, but the modern version of the Paisley shawl, hit the high streets of Britain with a vengeance. Virtually all of these modern shawls have the pattern printed on and are mainly produced in Italy. However, they can be found in all qualities ranging from the very high class printed silks retailed under couture names such as Hermes and Valentino or Etro, sometimes costing hundreds of dollars down to the cheap polyester fabrics which can be purchased in the local shopping center.
Etro Paisley Shawl.
The modern shawls differ quite considerably from those worn in Victoria times - the latter were large, heavy and unwieldy. Trying to put on a Paisley plaid makes one realise how heavy and cumbersome such shawls were.
Handmade Paisley Shawl, ca. 1860s.
Today's shawls do not have to cover enormous crinoline skirts or perform the function of a coat.
Bustle dresses.
Crinoline (1860-1870).
The modern Paisley printed shawls cannot match the grand scale achieved in the nineteenth century. In fact, amongst the shawls currently on the market, the commonest type which is reminiscent of the antique product has a plain color center and a sophisticated, almost miniaturised, version of the Paisley plaid design around the edges. These cheap and cheerful wraps can be found in any and every color to match any modern outfit.
Modern Paisley Shawl.
Paisley Pattern - Part III
Many of the producers of modern Paisley shawls have consulted the patterns books in the Paisley Museum and have used them as a basis for new interpretations of the ancient motif. The motifs below and commentary have been obtained from reference [1].
Comment[1]: This gauze print pattern carries the stamp of the designer,'Chles Boucherat, Paris, 7 Rue Mazagram, Boule. Bonne Nouvelle'. It dates to the 1850s.
Comment[1]: An unusual striped design for a silk gauze printed shawl ca. 1860.
Comment[1]: A striped design for a gauze print perhaps intended for roller printing.
Comment[1]: Sometimes the outline of the Paisley motif was made, not so much by its filling, as by the absence of the pattern immediately around it. This design gives a particularly good example of the 'voided' technique.
Comment[1]: These two patterns from the book of Designs for Gauze Prints, French and English (1850-1860) show us that the sprig design of the central area was called filling, whilst the border design was called flounce.
Comment[1]: An early border pattern of extremely stylized floral motifs.
Comment[1]: A fine printed shawl design, probably intended for roller printing, presented to the Paisley Museum by former shawl manufacturer John Robertson.
Comment[1]: 1860's design for a silk gauze printed shawl.
Reference:
[1] V. Reilly, Paisley Patterns, Portland House, New York (1989).
For your convenience I have listed other posts in this series:
Paisley Patterns - Part I
Paisley Patterns - Part II
Introduction
Paisley has been more or less fashionable for the last decade, but there was a particular upsurge of interest over the 1988-89 winter season. Suddenly not just Paisley patterns, but the modern version of the Paisley shawl, hit the high streets of Britain with a vengeance. Virtually all of these modern shawls have the pattern printed on and are mainly produced in Italy. However, they can be found in all qualities ranging from the very high class printed silks retailed under couture names such as Hermes and Valentino or Etro, sometimes costing hundreds of dollars down to the cheap polyester fabrics which can be purchased in the local shopping center.
The modern shawls differ quite considerably from those worn in Victoria times - the latter were large, heavy and unwieldy. Trying to put on a Paisley plaid makes one realise how heavy and cumbersome such shawls were.
Today's shawls do not have to cover enormous crinoline skirts or perform the function of a coat.
The modern Paisley printed shawls cannot match the grand scale achieved in the nineteenth century. In fact, amongst the shawls currently on the market, the commonest type which is reminiscent of the antique product has a plain color center and a sophisticated, almost miniaturised, version of the Paisley plaid design around the edges. These cheap and cheerful wraps can be found in any and every color to match any modern outfit.
Paisley Pattern - Part III
Many of the producers of modern Paisley shawls have consulted the patterns books in the Paisley Museum and have used them as a basis for new interpretations of the ancient motif. The motifs below and commentary have been obtained from reference [1].
Reference:
[1] V. Reilly, Paisley Patterns, Portland House, New York (1989).
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