Preamble
For your convenience I have listed other posts in this series:
Paisley Patterns - Part I
Paisley Patterns - Part III
Introduction
The "Paisley Pattern" has been actively used for some 2,500 years. The Oriental peoples have always appreciated the beauty of its design and once introduced into Europe some 200 years ago, it has also taken-in Western hearts. Fashions come and go and so undoubtedly Paisley will subside. Since the shawl itself went out of fashion in the 1870s, the Paisley pattern has never really disappeared - Paisley patterned items can be found in most shopping centres and districts.
11 Foot, Circa 1880 Victorian Jacquard Woven Paisley Shawl
The modern Paisley shawls (mostly printed in Italy) differ significantly from those worn in Victorian times, which were large, heavy and unwieldy. Today's shawls do not have to cover enormous crinoline skirts or perform the function of a coat. They are often more decorative than practical - in fact, they usually drape over the wearer's outdoor coat, so they do not have to be as warm as the originals. Consequently, they are lighter in weight and much smaller: on an average today's shawls measure about 1.3 square meters.
Valentino, Jacquard red tartan & paisley silk shawl 1990s.
But nowhere is the pattern more fully respected than in Paisley itself where a collection of Paisley shawls are on display at the Paisley Museum in Scotland, along with examples of original hand looms. The collection is a "Recognised Collection of National Significance to Scotland".
Paisley Museum in Scotland.
The Paisley pattern books are preserved at the Paisley Museum, not only as an archive of the history of Paisley's industry, but also as a research tool for present and future studies. The pattern books include many oddities; for example, some look as if they could never be a part of a shawl design, whilst others in the books appear more like the designs used on printed cottons from World War Two. However, some designs for printed head squares from the period immediately after shawl production, do exist amongst the collection.
Paisley Patterns - Part II
Comments[1]: A design very much in the style of the shawls exhibited at Crystal Palace in 1851.
Comments[1]: This design for a printed shawl (note the "twill weave effect" line) is stamped as being the work of George Haite of London. Other examples of his work are known from the Victoria and Albert Museum.
Comments[1]: Drawing on the squared-off paper, this design shows the stylized floral style.
Comments[1]: From the folder titled "Pulls for Paisley Patterns", this is a typical design for roller printing.
Comments[1]: This simple design appears to be intended for roller printing.
Comments[1]: Small scale design probably intended for roller printing.
Comments[1]: This Yuill and Houston registered design of 1875 lists twelve different color variations.
Comments[1]: A printed rig from the volume of Quill and Houston's registered designs of 1857. The book shows five color variations for this pattern, and also details of a matching border.
Comments[1]: A border design in an interesting variation of the "Harlequin" style. Probably dates to ca. 1830.
Comments[1]: From the unnamed book of French and English design the gauze prints of the 1850s. This is a design for the edge of an imitation plaid.
Comments[1]: From Print Sketches ca. 1857 comes this sophisticated design, where three small Paisley motifs are constrained within an oval.
Reference
[1] V. Reilly, Paisley Patterns, Portland House, New York (1989).
For your convenience I have listed other posts in this series:
Paisley Patterns - Part I
Paisley Patterns - Part III
Introduction
The "Paisley Pattern" has been actively used for some 2,500 years. The Oriental peoples have always appreciated the beauty of its design and once introduced into Europe some 200 years ago, it has also taken-in Western hearts. Fashions come and go and so undoubtedly Paisley will subside. Since the shawl itself went out of fashion in the 1870s, the Paisley pattern has never really disappeared - Paisley patterned items can be found in most shopping centres and districts.
The modern Paisley shawls (mostly printed in Italy) differ significantly from those worn in Victorian times, which were large, heavy and unwieldy. Today's shawls do not have to cover enormous crinoline skirts or perform the function of a coat. They are often more decorative than practical - in fact, they usually drape over the wearer's outdoor coat, so they do not have to be as warm as the originals. Consequently, they are lighter in weight and much smaller: on an average today's shawls measure about 1.3 square meters.
But nowhere is the pattern more fully respected than in Paisley itself where a collection of Paisley shawls are on display at the Paisley Museum in Scotland, along with examples of original hand looms. The collection is a "Recognised Collection of National Significance to Scotland".
The Paisley pattern books are preserved at the Paisley Museum, not only as an archive of the history of Paisley's industry, but also as a research tool for present and future studies. The pattern books include many oddities; for example, some look as if they could never be a part of a shawl design, whilst others in the books appear more like the designs used on printed cottons from World War Two. However, some designs for printed head squares from the period immediately after shawl production, do exist amongst the collection.
Paisley Patterns - Part II
Reference
[1] V. Reilly, Paisley Patterns, Portland House, New York (1989).
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