Saturday, July 25, 2020

Art Nouveau (Part IV)
Prints on Paper

Marie-Therese Wisniowski


Preamble
For your convenience I have listed below the other posts in this series:
Art Nouveau (Part I)
Art Nouveau (Part II)
Art Nouveau (Part III)


Art Nouveau (Part IV)[1]
Edmond Aman-Jean (1860-1936)[1]
The French painter and graphic artist was a student of Eugéne Carriére, who together with Rodin founded in 1890 inter alia the "Société Nationale des Beaux Arts", the second Parisan Spring Salon and thus an association which wanted to create a middle ground between punters of the "Académie", whose art was benumbed and the restless avant-garde. Aman-Jean exhibited regularly in the Salon and quickly acquired a name for himself, such that he was immediately made a corresponding member from abroad when the Vienesse "Secession" was founded; his work was also represented regularly at their exhibitions. In "Ver Sacrum" in 1900 his "Visions of the Splendour of Life", influenced by Edgar Degas, was praised. His subdued collars are especially characteristic, in particular the use of pink and purple, indian yellow and jade green. Since the 1890s Aman-Jean had been devoting himself mainly to copperplate engravings, lithography and watercolor painting. He produced his numerous portraits of women, whose arabesque contours characterised the ladies of the Parisan salons very nicely, a monotonous world, a vacuum, a world of reveries, but also of sorrow as the illustration "Ophelia" shows (the title is not certain). Aman-Jean was the first painter in France to be strongly influenced by the Pre-Raphaelites in Britain, from whose understanding of European Art Nouveau developed.

Title: Ophelia (undated).
Technique: Color lithograph.
Size: 34.3 x 26.5 cm.

Leon N. Bakst (1866 - 1924)[1]
In Leon Bakst we become acquainted with one of the most outstanding Russian representatives of Art Nouveau. Around the turn of the century two centres had formed in the country. The artists in Moscow drew their inspiration from Russian folklore (very typical for Wassily Kandinksky) determined by the rustic provinciality of their environment, and thus exerted a strong influence on the development of Western European Art. Quite different were the artists in St. Petersburg, the residence of the Tsar, and the center of rich intellectual, artistic and social life. Looking in keeping with tradition, to France and Germany, there was a particularly active German and French colony with theatre and opera productions, ballet performances and concerts. The artists in St Petersburg adopted the style of the Parisian fin-de-siécle and constructed a dream-world of stylized forms and colors. Bakst commuted between St Petersburg and Paris where he died. The French capital experienced from 1907 onwards a short but vehement surge in ballet. Sergei Diaghileff had founded there, with parts of the Imperial Ballet from St Petersburg, the Russian Ballet, which achieved world fame thanks to the efforts of its members and collaborators, and which re-established classical ballet. Abba Pawlowa and Nijnsky, among others, were members of the corps de ballet; Stravinsky, among others, composed the music; and Matisse and Bakst, among others, created the costumes and stage scenery. The image below shows the cover illustration of the program for the ballet, "L'Aprés-Midi d'un Faune" by Claude Debussy; Diaghileff had entrusted the task of producing costumes and fitments to Bakst. For months Bakst observed the rehearsals, Nijinsky stood at their center with his completely new type of choreography, which showed him marrying a veiled nymph - a performance which caused a scandal at the premiere because of the alleged immorality. The sculptor Auguste Rodin recognised, however, the sensational aspects of the portrayal. "Nijinsky possesses, to the highest degree possible, the merits of physical perfection and harmonious and elegant proportions. In "L'Aprés-Midi d'un Faune", he pushes forward the borders of the miraculous, without any great leaps or bounds, simply by means of the comportment and movement of a creature with a semi-conscious affinity to nature. The unison of the body and mime is perfect...It is the ideal model that painters and sculptors have been trying to achieve since time immemorial". Precisely this is mirrored in Bakst's lithograph, a work of genius.

Title: L'Aprés-Midi d'un Faune (1912).
Technique: Color lithograph.
Illustration for a theatre program.

Thomas Theodor Heine (1867 - 1948)[1]
T.T. Heine was a co-founder of the periodical 'Simplicissimus'. but he worked for other publications too, such as 'Die Insel' and 'Jugend'. Born in Leipzig, he lived in Munich from 1889 until his emigration in 1933. His numerous books and magazine illustrations bear the mark of Japanese wood-engravings and of Beardsley's use of line, but Heine reduced the number of lines severely, thus strengthening and sharpening the message of his pictures significantly. The illustration below shows the cover for a program of the Munich cabaret group, 'Die elf Scharfrichter' (The Eleven Executioners). Eleven sharped-tongued artists, including Frank Wedekind - painters, sculptors, musicians, architects and poets - came together in 1901 to attack and 'execute' the society of their time in their songs and short plays. The eleven wore hangman's hoods during each performance; these are replaced in the illusrtration below by devil's masks. Mary Delvard stole the show. Her figure made her seem born to be the trademark of the cabaret company, and this is expressed very nicely by Heine's illustration, which was in fact employed as a poster.

Cover for the program, Bühne und Brettl (The Stage and Cabaret) (1905).
Technique: Autotype.
Size: A3.

Peter Behrens (1868 - 1940)[1]
Behrens translated this leitmotif into reality in his artistic work with consistency rarely matched by another artist. Born in Hamburg, he co-founded the Munich, 'Secession', in 1893 and four years later, 'Vereinigten Werkstaetten für Kunst in Handwerk', there. He contributed to 'Pan' from 1898 onwards, the most important German periodical for art and literature at that time. In 1900, he went to Darmstadt to work on the creation of an artist colony on the 'Mathildenhoehe', an architectural complex in Art Nouveau style, which later became world-famous (and still is today). In this way he took the step in the direction of architecture, which was to be so important for the course of his life. From 1905 onwards, he received important commissions. In 1907 he was the artistic advisor of AEG (Allgemeaine Elektrizitaets-Gesellschaft i.e. the Electricity Board), for which he constructed numerous plants, thus providing an important model for modern industrial architecture (one of his students was Walter Gropius). He designed and furnished his home right down to the smallest detail, from the mosaic floor to the hollow tile, all in accordance with his concept of art as outlined above. Alongside such activity he created color wood engravings, book illustrations, posters and printed materials, and generally busied himself in various areas of the arts and crafts. His wood engraving, 'The Kiss', was to epitomise German Art Nouveau. The motif mentioned in the title, showing the profiles of two faces reminiscent of Japanese prints, almost disappears amid the great waves of hair of the two; these waves do not only form a most decorative frame they make themselves independent of the faces. The hair is a symbol of sexuality, and its surging waves hints at the rhythm of bodily union, like a whirlpool in which the lovers sink, swept away by their sexual passion.

Title: The Kiss (1898).
Published in the periodical, 'Pan', Vol.4. No 2.

Carl Otto Czeschka (1878 - 1960)[1]
Born in Vienna, Czeschka had studied at the Academy in his home town from 1894-99. He became a member of the 'Secession' in 1900 and in 1905, a teacher at the Viennese College of Commercial Art. From 1907-1943 he was a teacher at the College of Commercial Art in Hamburg where he also died. This incredible versatile artist (e.g. graphics, wood engravings, book illustrations, publications, stage scenery, interior design) - who also worked for the Viennese Workshop, where he designed famous postcards - was commissioned in 1907 to paint the setting for a production of Hebbel's 'Nibelungen' in the Raimund-Theatre in Vienna. The production did not take place in the end, but the 'Nibelungen' theme clearly fascinated Czeschka so much that he illustrated the Gerlach edition a year later. He was also a member of a group led by Gustav Klimt; we recognise the latter's influence in both illustrations, below, which are printed side by side just for that purpose. Czeschka has produced Byzantine-like art here, rich in ornament, which we know well from Klimt's work; characteristic is the use of gold. Despite the relatively small format, the pictures seem monumental, an effect determined by the large vacant black space which stands in clear contrast to the tiny, mosaic-like depictions which ascends and so reduces to what is essential; the tension between the two parts of the picture is great. Both illustrations show the beginning of the 'Nibelungen' poem. We see here a peak in terms of the quality of illustration of children's books at that time, a peak which was hardly ever reached again.

Title: Kriemhild's Dream (1908).
Technique: Color wood engravings.

Antonio Rizzi (1869 - 1941)[1]
It is astonishing how little impact Art Nouveau had in Italy. Further, the few who were inspired, had such diverse interpretations of it. Antonio Rizzi was a Professor at the Academy in Perugia. He contributed from time to time to the periodical 'Jugend' and created, besides graphic prints and illustrations, above all, works in the guise of historical, genre, portrait and scenery painting. The illustration below shows his affinity to the academic, historical Art Nouveau style, just as we know it from the works of Franz von Stuck.

Title: Novissimo (1902).
Technique: Illustration.
Size: 12.7 x 25.5 cm.

Julius Diez (1870 - 1957)[1]
It should be noted there is no evidence that the term 'Jugendstil' was taken from the title of the periodical 'Jugend', which appeared in Munich from 1896. This illustrated weekly with its focus on art and life, as the sub-title emphasised, did not follow a uniform 'new' style, but presented alongside each other such different artists as Wilhelm Busch, Loves Corinth, Franz von Defregger, Arnold Boecklin, Franz von Lenbach and Franz von Stuck. By 'Jugend' (youth) one meant more 'that which is new', 'that which shakes off old forms and styles' and this could also be achieved by artists who were no longer necessarily young in years. The periodical 'Jugend' was open to all possible stylistic directions, united in the aim of getting beyond Classicism and Historicism, toward a new unconventional life-style. This goal is mirrored in the published texts which were often satirical, and critical of their times. That these tentative steps often overshot their goal and later drowned in a flood of ornament, pompousness and kitsch, led to the term 'Jungendstil' (first used by Rudolf Alexander Schroeder in 1899, in another context) being understood as an abusive label for a long time, until researchers established around the middle of the twentieth century what is really meant by 'Jugendstil'.
One of these various tentative attempts, can be seen in the following illustration. Whereas, for example, French Art Nouveau consciously tried to get beyond styles and forms of the 19th Century, we find in Britain, and also in Art Nouveau Munich, a clear turning towards these; this so-called second rococo represents the last repetition of historical styles in the 19th century, but these are no longer taken seriously. The use of line and lettering is semi-classical, but the inclusion of a rococo cherub is ironic. Julius Diez studied at the College of Commercial Art and at the Academy of Munich, worked for 'Jugend' from the very beginning in 1896, taught from 1907 at the College in Munich, and was a Professor at the Academy and President of the 'Secession' from 1925.

The binding for the periodical 'Jugend' (1899).
Technique: Raised printing on linen.
Size: 29.3 x 23.3 cm.


Reference:
[1] P. Bramböck, Art Nouveau, Tiger Books Internation, London (1988).

Saturday, July 18, 2020

Stencil-Dyed Indigo Arabesque Patterns (Part V)[1]
Art Review

Marie-Therese Wisniowski


Preamble
For your convenience I have listed other posts on Japanese textiles on this blogspot:
Discharge Thundercloud
The Basic Kimono Pattern
The Kimono and Japanese Textile Designs
Traditional Japanese Arabesque Patterns (Part I)
Textile Dyeing Patterns of Japan
Traditional Japanese Arabesque Patterns (Part II)
Sarasa Arabesque Patterns (Part III)
Contemporary Japanese Textile Creations
Shibori (Tie-Dying)
History of the Kimono
A Textile Tour of Japan - Part I
A Textile Tour of Japan - Part II
The History of the Obi
Japanese Embroidery (Shishu)
Japanese Dyed Textiles
Aizome (Japanese Indigo Dyeing)
Stencil-Dyed Indigo Arabesque Patterns (Part V)
Japanese Paintings on Silk
Tsutsugaki - Freehand Paste-Resist Dyeing
Street Play in Tokyo
Birds and Flowers in Japanese Textile Designs
Japanese Colors and Inks on Paper From the Idemitsu Collection
Yuzen: Multicolored Past-Resist Dyeing - Part 1
Yuzen: Multi-colored Paste-Resist Dyeing - Part II


Stencil-Dyed Indigo Arabesque Patterns (Part V)
KARAKUSA (arabesque) patterns, in general, are made up of circular and elliptical shapes of stems and leaves drawn from an unlimited number of diagonal lines of simple and defined patterns, thus creating endlessly linked forms. These patterns flourished in Japan in the Edo period. However, since the end of WW2 the use of these patterns went into a steep decline. The patterns below have been refreshed with a modern touch in the hope that they may reawaken their use in modern decorative design.

Pattern Number 2.

Pattern Number 3.

Pattern Number 4.

Pattern Number 5.

Pattern Number 7.

Pattern Number 8.

Pattern Number 9.


Pattern Number 11.

Pattern Number 12.


Reference:
[1] Textile Design In Japan: Traditional Arabesque, Kamon Yoshimoto, Graphic-sha Publishing Co. Ltd, Tokyo (1977).

Saturday, July 11, 2020

Jeans: The Garment of the Twentieth Century
Wearable Art

Marie-Therese Wisniowski


Introduction
Our body temperature is approximately 37oC and so if the surrounds is hotter we need to wear clothes to protect us from the heat and if it is colder we need clothes to warm us. Being naked is never a good look! Hence even in Paupa New Guinea there are certain items that need to be covered even if the temperature of the surrounds are at blood temperature.

Man from the Dani tribe wearing a penis sheath, Baliem Valley, West Papua, Western New Guinea.

Clothes are also a complex social statement. With clothes we tell people who we are, sometimes unconsciously but at other times with intent!

Goth Girl.

Because of the garments we wear we can project our nationality, our membership of a group as well as display our economic and social status, our age and gender.

Engelleiter Women's Traditional costume Lederhosen Pants.

In every era this was desirable and obvious, but with the coming of the industrial revolution and clothes becoming more readily available and cheaper, today's diversity has led to less clarity in all of these categories. Perhaps the most socially inclusive clothing item that revolutionised our way of thinking was the humble pair of Levi Strauss jeans.

An embroidered Levi Strauss woman jeans.


Jeans: The Garment of the Twentieth Century[1-2]
Jeans were originally sturdy, robust working trousers for gold diggers on the west coast of the US. The oldest serving jean in the world is a Levi Strauss pair that is over 150 years old.

This pair was made in 1879.

The above pair is wide and durable enough to wear over long johns while out harvesting timber or mining silver in 1879, the year they were produced. Back then, the relic went by a different, old-timey name - waist overalls - in order to contrast with its competitor the popular bib overalls.

Tracey Panek, the Levi Strauss & Co. historian, wrote:
'I like to think of them as the very first early sustainable garment ... you could wear them out, you could pass them on, you could patch them up.'

They were first made for men who worked in mines, cowboys and farmers, and developed in parallel with the history of the American West, before they went global.

Teenagers embraced blue jeans in the 1950s, when Hollywood movies used jeans as a fashionable symbol of rebellion against the status quo. Pop culture "bad boys" such as James Dean and Marlon Brando popularized jeans in their films, wearing denim as they shook up society at large. This led to blue jeans being banned in some public schools in America, for being too provocative as they symbolised a revolt against the status quo.

James Dean - a bad boy that all the young loved.

The 1960s launched the beginning of the hippie age. The youthful, free love movement that rocked American culture embraced the casual blue jean, which was seen to represent freedom from more structured clothing. In this decade of creative expression, personalizing your jeans was considered very groovy. Embroidery, bright colors, stone washing, rhinestones and patches were just some of the hip jean trends of the time. Popular cuts included bell bottom flares and low-rise hip huggers.

Hippie jeans were bedazzled, flared and patched.

Since then jeans have been a forever evolving fashion: 1980s the birth of the designer jeans; 1990s the birth of the baggy jeans; 2000s the skinny jean makeover; to present where high waisted, cropped legs and Indie brands have become the in-thing.

Britney Spears with today's look.

Below is a table of the market share of the jeans market in the United States from 2012 to 2015 by company.



What is not shown in the table above is how the jean market has grown within countries with their own brands outside of the US. For example, Just Jeans is an Australian company that not only sells jeans but makes it own jeans under its brand name.

Just Jeans for men: stretch slim tapered leg.

Just Jeans for women: slim & flatten, hi rise and skinny.

Jeans represent how we wish to represent ourselves unashamedly. We don't care if we look fat in them, if we look sexy, and if we look motherly. Jeans just make us feel like our mood. They say to our psyche that: 'be what you want to be!' Jeans make us feel comfortable and make us disregard how others perceive us. The only garment that says: 'I don't care what you think of me, I love what I am and how comfortable I feel!'


Reference
[1] https://mashable.com/2015/03/17/oldest-levis-blue-jeans/

[2] https://www.liveabout.com/the-history-of-jeans-2040397

Saturday, July 4, 2020

Natural Dyes - Indigo[1]
Art Resource

Marie-Therese Wisniowski

Preamble
This is the one hundredth and one post in the "Art Resource" series, specifically aimed to construct an appropriate knowledge base in order to develop an artistic voice in ArtCloth.
Other posts in this series are:
Glossary of Cultural and Architectural Terms
Units Used in Dyeing and Printing of Fabrics
Occupational, Health & Safety
A Brief History of Color
The Nature of Color
Psychology of Color
Color Schemes
The Naming of Colors
The Munsell Color Classification System
Methuen Color Index and Classification System
The CIE System
Pantone - A Modern Color Classification System
Optical Properties of Fiber Materials
General Properties of Fiber Polymers and Fibers - Part I
General Properties of Fiber Polymers and Fibers - Part II
General Properties of Fiber Polymers and Fibers - Part III
General Properties of Fiber Polymers and Fibers - Part IV
General Properties of Fiber Polymers and Fibers - Part V
Protein Fibers - Wool
Protein Fibers - Speciality Hair Fibers
Protein Fibers - Silk
Protein Fibers - Wool versus Silk
Timelines of Fabrics, Dyes and Other Stuff
Cellulosic Fibers (Natural) - Cotton
Cellulosic Fibers (Natural) - Linen
Other Natural Cellulosic Fibers
General Overview of Man-Made Fibers
Man-Made Cellulosic Fibers - Viscose
Man-Made Cellulosic Fibers - Esters
Man-Made Synthetic Fibers - Nylon
Man-Made Synthetic Fibers - Polyester
Man-Made Synthetic Fibers - Acrylic and Modacrylic
Man-Made Synthetic Fibers - Olefins
Man-Made Synthetic Fibers - Elastomers
Man-Made Synthetic Fibers - Mineral Fibers
Man Made Fibers - Other Textile Fibers
Fiber Blends
From Fiber to Yarn: Overview - Part I
From Fiber to Yarn: Overview - Part II
Melt-Spun Fibers
Characteristics of Filament Yarn
Yarn Classification
Direct Spun Yarns
Textured Filament Yarns
Fabric Construction - Felt
Fabric Construction - Nonwoven fabrics
A Fashion Data Base
Fabric Construction - Leather
Fabric Construction - Films
Glossary of Colors, Dyes, Inks, Pigments and Resins
Fabric Construction – Foams and Poromeric Material
Knitting
Hosiery
Glossary of Fabrics, Fibers, Finishes, Garments and Yarns
Weaving and the Loom
Similarities and Differences in Woven Fabrics
The Three Basic Weaves - Plain Weave (Part I)
The Three Basic Weaves - Plain Weave (Part II)
The Three Basic Weaves - Twill Weave
The Three Basic Weaves - Satin Weave
Figured Weaves - Leno Weave
Figured Weaves – Piqué Weave
Figured Fabrics
Glossary of Art, Artists, Art Motifs and Art Movements
Crêpe Fabrics
Crêpe Effect Fabrics
Pile Fabrics - General
Woven Pile Fabrics
Chenille Yarn and Tufted Pile Fabrics
Knit-Pile Fabrics
Flocked Pile Fabrics and Other Pile Construction Processes
Glossary of Paper, Photography, Printing, Prints and Publication Terms
Napped Fabrics – Part I
Napped Fabrics – Part II
Double Cloth
Multicomponent Fabrics
Knit-Sew or Stitch Through Fabrics
Finishes - Overview
Finishes - Initial Fabric Cleaning
Mechanical Finishes - Part I
Mechanical Finishes - Part II
Additive Finishes
Chemical Finishes - Bleaching
Glossary of Scientific Terms
Chemical Finishes - Acid Finishes
Finishes: Mercerization
Finishes: Waterproof and Water-Repellent Fabrics
Finishes: Flame-Proofed Fabrics
Finishes to Prevent Attack by Insects and Micro-Organisms
Other Finishes
Shrinkage - Part I
Shrinkage - Part II
Progressive Shrinkage and Methods of Control
Durable Press and Wash-and-Wear Finishes - Part I
Durable Press and Wash-and-Wear Finishes - Part II
Durable Press and Wash-and-Wear Finishes - Part III
Durable Press and Wash-and-Wear Finishes - Part IV
Durable Press and Wash-and-Wear Finishes - Part V
The General Theory of Dyeing – Part I
The General Theory Of Dyeing - Part II
Natural Dyes
Natural Dyes - Indigo
Mordant Dyes
Premetallized Dyes
Azoic Dyes
Basic Dyes
Acid Dyes
Disperse Dyes
Direct Dyes
Reactive Dyes
Sulfur Dyes
Blends – Fibers and Direct Dyeing
The General Theory of Printing

There are currently eight data bases on this blogspot, namely, the Glossary of Cultural and Architectural Terms, Timelines of Fabrics, Dyes and Other Stuff, A Fashion Data Base, the Glossary of Colors, Dyes, Inks, Pigments and Resins, the Glossary of Fabrics, Fibers, Finishes, Garments and Yarns, Glossary of Art, Artists, Art Motifs and Art Movements, Glossary of Paper, Photography, Printing, Prints and Publication Terms and the Glossary of Scientific Terms, which has been updated to Version 3.5. All data bases will be updated from time-to-time in the future.

If you find any post on this blog site useful, you can save it or copy and paste it into your own "Word" document etc. for your future reference. For example, Safari allows you to save a post (e.g. click on "File", click on "Print" and release, click on "PDF" and then click on "Save As" and release - and a PDF should appear where you have stored it). Safari also allows you to mail a post to a friend (click on "File", and then point cursor to "Mail Contents On This Page" and release). Either way, this or other posts on this site may be a useful Art Resource for you.

The Art Resource series will be the first post in each calendar month. Remember - these Art Resource posts span information that will be useful for a home hobbyist to that required by a final year University Fine-Art student and so undoubtedly, some parts of any Art Resource post may appear far too technical for your needs (skip over those mind boggling parts) and in other parts, it may be too simplistic with respect to your level of knowledge (ditto the skip). The trade-off between these two extremes will mean that Art Resource posts will hopefully be useful in parts to most, but unfortunately may not be satisfying to all!


Introduction
Indigo is a vat dye and is extracted from the indigo plant.



The indigo plant is not useful for dyeing unless the dyer knows how it must be prepared before it is used. This procedure is complex, so dyers are advised to purchase the dye stuff in powdered form. Powdered indigo had added to it chemicals necessary to render it soluble in water with the use of sodium hydrosulfite as a reducing agent. In other words, the characteristic property of these insoluble dyes is that they can be made soluble using a reduction reaction. That is, they can be made to undergo a chemical reaction in the absence of air which changes the dye into a water soluble form. This soluble form is called "Leuco" and it is white or colorless, flat and a linear molecule in shape.

Slide 1: The colorless soluble form (left) and colored insoluble form (right) of Indigotin (commonly called indigo).

The availability of good, fast blues is important to dyers and moreover, to natural dyers. The powdered dyestuff can be expensive but a little goes a long way.

Today's post solely focusses on this one very import natural dye.


Chemicals and Equipment
Two chemicals are needed to make an indigo bath using the recipe given below. They are: sodium hydrosulfide (commonly known as Hydros) and sodium hydroxide (commonly known as Lye).



Both chemical are poisonous, very strong and dangerous if inhaled or splashed on the skin. Always use rubber gloves when dyeing with indigo and take great care when cleaning up. Always add chemical to a body of water and never add water to a body of chemicals since in the latter process stuttering may occur splattering toxic chemicals over you. Never stir the water into the dry chemical as this produces toxic fumes.



The basic chemicals required are hydros, lye and powdered indigo.

Powdered Indigo.

When ordering powdered indigo, specify that you do not want "synthetic indigo". Genuine powdered indigo is treated with chemicals to make it suitable to use with the recipe given below.

The equipment required is modest: a small enamel pan with a lid, two large covered jars (e.g. pickle jars), several stirrers, measuring cups, measuring spoons, a thermometer, dyepot and fabric or fiber to be dyed.


Recipe[1]
The following three mixtures are made up before the actual dyeing begins: Solution 1, Solution 2, and the Indigo Stock Solution.

Solution 1 - Lye Solution:
To one pint of water in a quart jar (0.5 litre in a one litre jar), slowly add one-third of a cup (70 ml) of lye. Stir carefully. Cover the jar with a lid, label it, and set it aside. (This lye solution is strongly alkaline and becomes quite hot, so wear gloves when preparing it or the jar will be too hot to hold.) Solution 1 will keep for three or four days, after which time it loses strength.

Solution 2 - Hydros Solution:
To one pint of water in a quart jar (0.5 litre in a one litre jar) slowly add 6 tablespoons (80 ml) of hydros. Stir carefully until the chemical is dissolved. This mixture is quite foul-smelling, so cover the jar tightly and then label it. It would also be advisable to do it in a well ventilated area. Before you set it aside, you can wrap it in a plastic bag to diminish the odor. Hydros is the reducing agent. It reduces the indigo by removing the oxygen from the indigo bath.

Indigo Stock Solution:
0.5 of a cup (120 ml) of Solution 1 (lye).
0.5 of a cup (120 ml) of Solution 2 (hydros).
3-4 tablespoons (45 - 60 ml) of powdered non-synthetic indigo.

You will need the indigo stock solution (as prepared above) plus more of Solution 2, hydros.

Recipe:
Heat 4 gallons (18 litres) of water to 120oF or 48oC in the dyepot. Then add 4 tablespoons (60 ml) of hydros, Solution 2, to remove the oxygen present in the water. STIR THIS Gently, if at all, because you do not want to incorporate even more oxygen into the solution! It may be sufficient to merely tip the covered dyepot gently back and forth to distribute the hydros. Now let the water and hydros stand, covered for 10 to 15 minutes to allow it to settle. Next add 4 to 8 tablespoons (60 - 120 ml) of the indigo stock solution. (Using the smaller amount will yield light blues on 1 pound (453 g) of fiber, while the large amount will give medium to dark blue with the same amount of fiber. Cover the bath, and again allow it to sit undisturbed for 20 to 30 minutes to allow the chemicals and indigo to settle. During this time the temperature should be maintained at 120oF or 48oC. You can wrap an old blanket around the dyepot. The temperature may fall a few degrees, but this is all right as long as it does not exceed 120o or 48oC. The bath will now appear to be a yellowish green. This is normal.

It is most important to remember if you feel uncomfortable to carry out this recipe, seek a very experienced dyer who can walk you through this process safely until you have mastered it. THIS IS A MANDATORY STEP FOR NOVICE DYERS.


Dyeing with Indigo
Enter the wet fiber by easing it into the dyepot. Take care not to plunge it in, thereby introducing bubbles (i.e. oxygen). Once the fiber is in, replace the lid and put the dyepot on the heat. Always keep the temperature below 120oF or 48oC. This is a conservative figure: some dyers consider a temperature of 140oF or 60oC safe, but novice dyers should stick to the lower temperatures. Allow the first skein (ie. a length of thread or yarn or cloth, loosely coiled and knotted) to remain in the bath for 20 to 30 minutes. Take out the fiber and oxidize it.

Oxidation Process:
This is what turns the fiber blue, or actually, more blue. Hold the dripping skein OVER A BUCKET (so as not to introduce additional oxygen to the bath) and allow it to drip for several minutes. Within 30 to 60 seconds it will turn blue, a color much more definite than it was in the dyepot.

Indigo Mini Skein 13 oz 368g.

Turn the skein one way and then another so all of it is oxidized. If the color is satisfactory, hang the skein up to drip and label it (first dip etc.) It may be re-dipped later on or, if you want a dark blue, returned to the dyepot immediately. Some dyers claim stronger blues can be achieved if the indigo fibers are oxidised in sunlight, outdoors, for ten to twenty minutes between dips.


Control of Color
The color given by an indigo bath is governed by the amount of stock solution used, the time the fiber is in the bath, and the number of dips. As a dyer gains experience, the colors can be predicted with a fair degree of accuracy, based on previous records. Indigo blues are beautiful as they are, but extremely handsome when topped with strong yellows to produce greens, Experiment! No other dyestuff is quite so time-consuming and yet so rewarding.

Indigo Blue Lace Dress.



Neutralizing
After each skein has been removed from its final dip, it must be neutralized, because it is strongly alkaline. To neutralize the skein the following steps should be invoked:
(i) Rinse the indigo-dyed fiber in lukewarm water to which one cup (240 ml) of vinegar has been added for each pound (453 g) of fiber.
(ii) Rinse next in cool water.
(iii) Rinse a third time in a lukewarm bath using a non-detergent soap.
(iv) Rinse a fourth time in clear, cool water and hang to dry.


Drying:
To avoid streaking indigo skeins, turn the fiber around often as it is drying. This prevents excess moisture from dripping onto one part of the skein. Drape over a plastic-covered rod or plastic clothesline. The dye might stain a painted wooden railing on a porch or fence.

Disposal of Indigo Bath
Since lye and hydros in the indigo bath are strongly alkaline, it will not harm the plumbing to pour it down the sink. After all, many people use lye to unclog drains. However, the indigo solution is messy; its purple slime clings to whatever it touches. Rural dyers with septic systems may wish to dispose of an indigo bath by digging a hole and pouring it into the ground in a spot where children and animals cannot get to. For city folk it is always best to have a conversation with your local council environmental officer.

Cleaning Equipment
All equipment used in indigo dyeing must be carefully cleaned, as even minute traces of the blue residue will spoil subsequent non-indigo baths. Throw stirrers away unless they are glass or plastic. Scrub all utensils with warm water and detergent soap. Then rinse them with a chlorine solution (i.e. a mild bleach solution) followed by a clear water rinse.

Bottoming and Topping with Indigo
Indigo-dyed fibers can be over-dyed with other dyestuff to obtain good greens and already dyed yellows can be made green with subsequent dips in the indigo bath. "Topping" usually refers to the process of covering a light shade, such as yellow, with a darker one, such as blue. "Bottoming" is the reverse: the dark shade is dyed first and the light one goes on top. It is a matter of personal preference which method you use to obtain greens (or any other colors) from indigo. The equality of the resulting color depends on the clarity of the yellow dye. Goldenrod yellows tend to give bluish-greens when topped with indigo; the colors are unique and extremely attractive. Using indigo dyes and other colored dyes will yield colors ranging from turquoise to a variety of navy and dark blues. The turquoise can be made using goldenrod yellow topped with indigo. Indigo dyers are passionate about creating new hues; some have topped soft dogwood rose-greys with indigo for purple heather effects.

Indigo jungle maxi dress.


Reference:
[1] K.L. Casselman, Craft of the Dyer, University of Toronto Press, Toronto (1980).