Saturday, January 30, 2021

Short History of Screenprinting
Art Essay

Marie-Therese Wisniowski

Introduction
One of the most basic tools in my studio are screenprinting frames of varying sizes and with different size meshes. Whether my prints are registered or free forming, they are the basis of creating my artworks on cloth, my artworks on paper, my wearable art (e.g. scarves), my fabric lengths and fat quarters as well as underwrite many of my workshops and what I sell at Art Markets. My screens are instrumental in delivering my workshops and masterclasses and so give me the added satisfaction in terms of assisting national and international artists who want to explore new techniques in order to grow their armoury and so deliver more complex artwork.

Marie-Therese screenprinting in her studio.

One of my screenprinted ArtCloth pieces centers on Marilyn Monroe, see - Neu Kunst: Marilyn.

Both the analogue ArtCloth work and digital fabric lengths of Marilyn are available for sale and if you wish to enquire about purchasing either of them, please email me on - studio@artquill.com.au

One of the most enjoyable and interesting aspect is the new technique I have developed both on paper and on cloth. On cloth I have developed a MultiSperse Dye Sublimation (MSDS) technique, which has been a basic technique underpinning many of my ArtCloth works as well as for some of my screenprinted works on cloth. The technique was published in the March edition (2013) of the magazine "Imprint".

Title: Ginkgo Love (Full View).
Techniques and Materials: My MultiSperse Dye Sublimation (MSDS) technique, painted, silkscreened and stenciled employing disperse dyes, opaque and metallic pigment on synthetic fiber.
Size: 9 x 5 inches.

Title: Ginkgo Love (Detail View).

I have also developed a Talc powder screenprinting technique on cloth which was published in Embellish Magazine (Volume 3, Issue number 14, June 2013).



I have also developed a Low Relief screenprinting technique on cloth.

Techniques and Materials: Above is a low relief screenprinted artwork employing fabric paints and foam packaging peanuts on cotton.

I have not been idle when it comes to my prints on paper. I developed a 'matrix formatting' screenprinting technique for these prints on paper.

Title: Cultural Graffiti VIII (Full View).
Materials and Techniques: Print on paper. Matrix formatted silkscreen print employing dyes and metallic foil on Pescia stock.
Edition: Edition of 3.
Size: 76 cm (width) x 56 cm (length).
Note: This artwork was selected in 2006 to participate in the "2006 Swan Hill Print and Drawing Acquisitive Awards", Swan Hill Regional Art Gallery, Swan Hill, Victoria, Australia.
Sold on inspection to a private collector (New South Wales, Australia).

One of my other signature techniques for prints on paper I have termed "Multiplexing". It involves careful application of resists to numerous color plates, transparent color glazes, multiple layering of printed images and accurate registration. It is an extremely complex and time intensive technique, which works "best" on paper.

For further details about this artwork see - Veiled Curtains: Benazir.

As you can see screenprinting plays an important role in my artistic journey as well as in my commercial life (e.g. workshops, wearable art and fat quarters and for my digital cloth designs etc.)

Artist and Title: Marie-Therese Wisniowski, Oh Mona!
Note: Above gives a detail view of a digital cloth design.


Short History of Screenprinting[1]
Screenprinting evolved from the advanced forms of stencilling. The earliest recorded examples of stencilling are negative prints of the human hand found in the Paleolithic cave paintings dating from as early as 40,000 - 1,000 BCE.

Red ochre hand stencils in the Cave of El Castillo (c.37,300 BCE). Aurignacian culture. These markings are some of the earliest art of the upper Paleolithic.

Primitive cultures typically used stencils made from common perishable materials such as leaves or animal skins. As civilisation advanced more sophisticated methods developed: in ancient Egypt, stencils were used to decorate tombs; the Greeks and Romans employed stencils to paint murals and outline mosaics.

Greek key stencil border.

It was the Chinese and Japanese cultures, however, that began to utilise the craft for production purposes. As early as 500 AD, stencilling was used to reproduce images of the Buddha throughout China.

However, it should not be forgotten that the first known use of the screenprinting technique was actually by the ancient Polynesians, who would force ink through holes cut into banana leaves to make prints. And yet, silk screening is almost always attributed to the Chinese, who were using forced ink techniques to create images of Buddha as early as 960 AD, the beginning of the Song dynasty.

The Japanese soon adopted this technique and improved upon it, creating an art form called katagami, which is the creation of intricate paper stencils for dyeing textiles. The Japanese would layer several sheets of washi paper bonded with glue extracted from the persimmon fruit, making a strong, flexible, brown-colored sheet. The sheet was cut with patterns, the delicate pieces of which were then stabilized on a screen built from a fine silk mesh. Originally, the Japanese used human hair to create this net, but hair was gradually replaced with silk because it was stronger.

Antique Japanese Ise KATAGAMI Kimono Stencil Art. Edo Meiji Period 型紙 1777.

The artisans would then pass rice paste through the screen and stencil and onto the fabric; that area would not be dyed, allowing them to pattern large swathes of fabric by repeated stenciling. This technique is how kimonos were originally created, and katagami is now an element of the important intangible cultural properties of Japan. If you expand the picture below, you can see the fine silk threads behind the washi stencil.

Katagami: umbrella's, water and pine needle clusters.

The more advanced Japanese techniques influenced the Europeans after these methods spread to the West through trade routes. Soon, these inventive processes were being used in the rapidly advancing European textile industry. Stencils affixed to silk may have been used in Germany and France by the late 19th century.

The evolution from stencilling to screenprinting was hastened in 1907, when Englishman Samuel Simon patented a screen based on the Japanese model of silk on a wooden frame. Just a few years later American John Pilsworth patented a multicolor screen process to be used in the high quantity production of advertising signs and point-of-sale materials.
Inexpensive and readily available bolting cloth supported the hand-cut paper stencils.

Technology advancements followed rapidly, as specialised stencil film and light-sensitive photographic emulsion were introduced. The development of the squeegee eliminated the need to use stiff brushes to push the ink through the stencil. Screenprinting thrived as a commercial process by the 1920s, and it was particularly well suited to the textile industry.



Artists began experimenting with the expressive qualities of the medium in the 1930s. In Europe, there was an exciting period of collaboration between artists and textile manufacturers that continued throughout the century.

Artist and Title of Work: Henri Matisse, Icare, Plate VIII from Jazz (1947). Pochoir.
Collection of the Grunwald Center for Graphic Arts, UCLA Hammer Museum.
Gift of Mr. Norton Simon.
Photography by Robert Wedemeyer (2004).
Succession H. Matisse, Paris.
Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York.

In the United States many artists were exposed to screenprinting in the federally sponsored arts projects established during the Depression. The term serigraphy entered the lexicon at the time artists were investigating the potential of creating fine art through screenprinting. Despite some years of serious pursuit by artists, it was not until the Pop Art movement of the 1960s that serigraphy was firmly established as an art form, when artists such as Andy Warhol and Robert Rauschenberg created a sensation working in the medium.

Artist and Title of Work: Andy Warhol, Liz Taylor.
Techniques and Materials: Colored silkscreen print on wove paper.
Size: 20 x 20 inches..

Stenciling and screenprinting is still very popular today and is now used with cloth as the medium rather than paper.

Artist and Title of Installation: Marie-Therese Wisniowski, Codes: Lost Voices
A Semiotic ArtCloth Installation.


Reference:
[1] A. Stromquist, Simple Screenprinting, Larks Books, New York (2005).

Saturday, January 23, 2021

Felt Shawls
Wearable Art

Marie-Therese Wisniowski


Introduction[1]
Felt has been in use across Central Asia for thousands of years. Believed to be one of the earliest man-made materials, it arose during the Neolithic period and was indispensable to nomadic cultures like the Mongols, who used it to make items as varied and necessary as saddles, to boost body amour and for circular tents called yurts.

Buddist monk and a felted yurt.

Among the nomadic cultures, felt was also worked into colorful patterned carpets, tent bands, bags and clothing. It was not until artists outside of traditional felt making societies began investigating felt as both a creative medium and a rich vein of scholary study. Today however, it is front and center for many crafters, who are stretching the boundaries of the imaginative use of felt.

Today's post focusses on the imaginative use of felt in creating wearable art and in particular, shawls.


Shawls Made from Felt[1]

Artist and Title of Work:Leiko Uchiyama - Bolero (2009).
Materials and Techniques: Merino wool, silk fiber; dyed, wet felted.
Size: 40 x 125 cm.
Photograph: Courtesy of Kazuhiro Kobushi.

Artist and Title of Work: Yvonne Wakabayashi - Black Hand-Cut Wool Lace Shrug (2009).
Materials and Techniques: Single-knit wool; cut, wet felted, clamped, dyed, stitched, block.
Size: not available.
Photograph: Courtesy of Kenji Nagai.

Artist and Title of Work: Cheryl Kamera - Untitled (2008).
Materials and Techniques: Silk mesh chiffon, merino fleece, devoré velvet; wet felted, dyed, nuno techniques.
Size: 56 x 150 cm.
Photograph: Courtesy of Michael Stadler.

Artist and Title of Work: Tammy L Deck - Sea-Green Shawl (2009).
Materials and Techniques: Merino cross fleece, silk gauze, wool, mohair, metallic yarns; hand dyed, wet felted, nuno techniques.
Size: 101.6 x 101.6 cm.
Photograph: Courtesy of Artist.

Artist and Title of Work: Lisa Klakulak - Bound Buttons Shawl (2005).
Materials and Techniques: Merino and Finn/Rambouillet wool fleece, silk fabric, wooden buttons; wet felted, naturally dyed with cochineal insects and indigo.
Size: 162.6 x 40.6 cm.
Photograph: courtesy of John Lucas.

Artist and Title of Work: Yvonne Wakabayashi, Chartreuse Nui Shibori Lace Shawl (2008).
Materials and Techniques: Single-knot wool jersey; dyed, shibori, cut, slashed, wet felted, blocked.
Size: 56 x 148 cm.
Photograph: Courtesy of Kenji Nagai.

Artist and Title of Work: Jean Gauger - Nuno Felted Buckeye Butterfly Shawl (2008).
Materials and Techniques: Merino wool, silk gauze, habotai silk, silk handkerchiefs, tussah silk roving; hand dyed, nuno techniques.
Size: 61 x 208 cm.
Photograph: Courtesy of artist.

Artist and Title of Work: Anna-Katherine Curfman - Circumference (2008).
Materials and Techniques: Merino roving, iridescent silk chiffon; nuno techniques, wet felted.
Size: 188 x 45.7 cm
Photography: Courtesy of David Emery.


Reference:
[1] N. Mornu and J. Hale, 500 Felt Objects, Lark Crafts, New York (2011).

Saturday, January 16, 2021

Crewel Embroidery
Works on Cloth

Marie-Therese Wisniowski


Preamble
For your convenience I have listed below the other post in this series:
Crewel Work or Old English Crewel Embroidery


Introduction[1]
The origins of crewel embroidery have become unclear over time. The nature of fabric and yarn has meant that much of embroidery's beginnings have perished as a result of vermin, climate and circumstance.

Wool does appear to be one of the most ancient media used for embroidery. It is depicted on fragments of leather and fabric, from as early as the first century BC, that have miraculously survived the ravages of time. Oner such piece is a fragment showing the face of a nomad warrior, which was found in Northern Mongolia.

Left: Embroidery on silk. A fragment of outerwear.
Right: A detailed drawing of images embroidered in a fragment of silk from outerwear. Noin Ula burial mound 20.

Another is is a hanging found in a tomb near Damietta, Egypt, that dates from the 4th or 5th century AD. The design has striking similarities to the later embroideries of the English Middle Ages.

Hanging with Polychrome Columns, 5th or 6th century, Found Egypt, near Damietta. Linen, wool, with height 208.3 cm.

The word 'crewel' is thought to have derived from the Anglo-Saxon 'clew', meaning a ball of yarn. It refers to the type of thread that is used - a two ply worsted wool yarn which can vary in thickness and texture. This wool was also known as 'cruel', 'crewel' or 'croyl'. Crewel wool usually has a long staple, which is very thin and can be twisted strongly and easily.

References to crewel are found in English records as far back as the 15th century. The Bayeux Tapestry which was worked in the 11th century, is one of the earliest and most famous examples of crewel work that we have today. This imposing work, which tells of the story of the Norman Conquest of England is over 70 meters long and is stitched with worsted yarns. It includes over 600 figures and many more animals, birds and fish, giving a remarkable insight into the way of life at that time.

Bayeux Tapestry, scene 55 - William Hastings battlefield.

The Bayeux Tapestry used only four kinds of stitches: stem stitches for outlining, satin stitches for filling in, long stitches for anchoring the satin stitches (also giving it dimension), and short stitches for nailing down the long stitch. The latter two have come to be known as the ‘Bayeux stitch’.

Crewel wool continued to be used for embroidery throughout medieval England. However, it was overshadowed by the glorious works of Opus Anglicanum which were largely ecclesiastical embroideries that incorporated silk and metal threads.

Opus Anglicanum (13th century).

French crewelwork curtain.

Top: Late 17th Century English crewelwork curtain.
Centre: Detail of blue crewelwork.
Bottom: Detail of crewelwork bed curtain, 1689.


Crewel Embroidery[1]
Crewel embroidery was often used to dress beds in Elizabethan and Jacobean times. Bed hangings, with matching valances, coverlets and cushions, were not only used to keep out cold draughts and to provide privacy but were a symbol of prosperity and luxury. On occasion, the crewel designs of the bed hangings were reworked in tent stitch for covering chairs and stools. The cost of such needlework was incredibly expensive and many wealthier households had embroiderers as members of their staff.

English bed hanging from 1690 depicting birds, animals, flowers and fruit in a tree of life stemming from a hillocky ground.

Mary Stuart, Queen of Scots, is one of history's most well known and prolific amateur embroiderers. As a child, she studied needlework at the French Court and during her twenty year imprisonment in Scotland and England she spent much of her time stitching.

Embroidery by Mary Queen of Scots with her name and emblematic picture of her roubles.

The needlework of the embroidery shown below began in Deerfield, Massachusetts, USA. Two local women, Ellen Miller and Margaret Whiting, had a desire to record the heritage of Massachusetts' needlework. They collected patterns and studied examples of old crewel embroidery, and began teaching to the local women of Deerfield. Eventually they established the Society of Deerfield Blue and White Needlework. The Society was disbanded in 1926.

Two wallhangings produced by The Deerfield Society of Blue and White Needlework between 1900-1916.

The brainchild of Anne Wynn-Wilson, the Quaker tapestry below depicts the history of Quakerism from the 17th century to the present day. Like the Bayeux Tapestry, it is worked in crewel embroidery. The seventy-seven panels, which make up this amazing work, are housed in Cumbria, England.
Four thousand men, women and children from fifteen different countries stitched the panels between 1981 and 1996. A special quaker stitch was invented for it.



The magnificent crewel embroidered bedspread that adorned the late Queen Mother's bed at Clamis Castle in Scotland disappeared in the 1950s. Her mother, Cecilia, the Countess of Stethmore, had originally worked it in 1904.

Phillipa Trunbull of The Crewel Work Company of Cumbria, England was commissioned to recreate the lost bedspread. With only a few photographs and the original headboard and pelmet as a guide, Phillipa spent over 600 hours in the research, design and stitching of the replacement bedspread. It was presented to the Queen Mother on her 100th birthday.



Reference:
[1] S. Gardner, Editor, A ~ Z of Crewel Embroidery, Magie Bauer Melbourne (2004).

Saturday, January 9, 2021

Disperse Dyes[1-2]
Art Resource

Marie-Therese Wisniowski

Preamble
This is the one hundredth and seventh post in the "Art Resource" series, specifically aimed to construct an appropriate knowledge base in order to develop an artistic voice in ArtCloth.
Other posts in this series are:
Glossary of Cultural and Architectural Terms
Units Used in Dyeing and Printing of Fabrics
Occupational, Health & Safety
A Brief History of Color
The Nature of Color
Psychology of Color
Color Schemes
The Naming of Colors
The Munsell Color Classification System
Methuen Color Index and Classification System
The CIE System
Pantone - A Modern Color Classification System
Optical Properties of Fiber Materials
General Properties of Fiber Polymers and Fibers - Part I
General Properties of Fiber Polymers and Fibers - Part II
General Properties of Fiber Polymers and Fibers - Part III
General Properties of Fiber Polymers and Fibers - Part IV
General Properties of Fiber Polymers and Fibers - Part V
Protein Fibers - Wool
Protein Fibers - Speciality Hair Fibers
Protein Fibers - Silk
Protein Fibers - Wool versus Silk
Timelines of Fabrics, Dyes and Other Stuff
Cellulosic Fibers (Natural) - Cotton
Cellulosic Fibers (Natural) - Linen
Other Natural Cellulosic Fibers
General Overview of Man-Made Fibers
Man-Made Cellulosic Fibers - Viscose
Man-Made Cellulosic Fibers - Esters
Man-Made Synthetic Fibers - Nylon
Man-Made Synthetic Fibers - Polyester
Man-Made Synthetic Fibers - Acrylic and Modacrylic
Man-Made Synthetic Fibers - Olefins
Man-Made Synthetic Fibers - Elastomers
Man-Made Synthetic Fibers - Mineral Fibers
Man Made Fibers - Other Textile Fibers
Fiber Blends
From Fiber to Yarn: Overview - Part I
From Fiber to Yarn: Overview - Part II
Melt-Spun Fibers
Characteristics of Filament Yarn
Yarn Classification
Direct Spun Yarns
Textured Filament Yarns
Fabric Construction - Felt
Fabric Construction - Nonwoven fabrics
A Fashion Data Base
Fabric Construction - Leather
Fabric Construction - Films
Glossary of Colors, Dyes, Inks, Pigments and Resins
Fabric Construction – Foams and Poromeric Material
Knitting
Hosiery
Glossary of Fabrics, Fibers, Finishes, Garments and Yarns
Weaving and the Loom
Similarities and Differences in Woven Fabrics
The Three Basic Weaves - Plain Weave (Part I)
The Three Basic Weaves - Plain Weave (Part II)
The Three Basic Weaves - Twill Weave
The Three Basic Weaves - Satin Weave
Figured Weaves - Leno Weave
Figured Weaves – Piqué Weave
Figured Fabrics
Glossary of Art, Artists, Art Motifs and Art Movements
Crêpe Fabrics
Crêpe Effect Fabrics
Pile Fabrics - General
Woven Pile Fabrics
Chenille Yarn and Tufted Pile Fabrics
Knit-Pile Fabrics
Flocked Pile Fabrics and Other Pile Construction Processes
Glossary of Paper, Photography, Printing, Prints and Publication Terms
Napped Fabrics – Part I
Napped Fabrics – Part II
Double Cloth
Multicomponent Fabrics
Knit-Sew or Stitch Through Fabrics
Finishes - Overview
Finishes - Initial Fabric Cleaning
Mechanical Finishes - Part I
Mechanical Finishes - Part II
Additive Finishes
Chemical Finishes - Bleaching
Glossary of Scientific Terms
Chemical Finishes - Acid Finishes
Finishes: Mercerization
Finishes: Waterproof and Water-Repellent Fabrics
Finishes: Flame-Proofed Fabrics
Finishes to Prevent Attack by Insects and Micro-Organisms
Other Finishes
Shrinkage - Part I
Shrinkage - Part II
Progressive Shrinkage and Methods of Control
Durable Press and Wash-and-Wear Finishes - Part I
Durable Press and Wash-and-Wear Finishes - Part II
Durable Press and Wash-and-Wear Finishes - Part III
Durable Press and Wash-and-Wear Finishes - Part IV
Durable Press and Wash-and-Wear Finishes - Part V
The General Theory of Dyeing – Part I
The General Theory of Dyeing - Part II
Natural Dyes
Natural Dyes - Indigo
Mordant Dyes
Premetallized Dyes
Azoic Dyes
Basic Dyes
Acid Dyes
Disperse Dyes
Direct Dyes
Reactive Dyes
Sulfur Dyes
Blends – Fibers and Direct Dyeing
The General Theory of Printing

There are currently eight data bases on this blogspot, namely, the Glossary of Cultural and Architectural Terms, Timelines of Fabrics, Dyes and Other Stuff, A Fashion Data Base, the Glossary of Colors, Dyes, Inks, Pigments and Resins, the Glossary of Fabrics, Fibers, Finishes, Garments and Yarns, Glossary of Art, Artists, Art Motifs and Art Movements, Glossary of Paper, Photography, Printing, Prints and Publication Terms and the Glossary of Scientific Terms, which has been updated to Version 3.5. All data bases will be updated from time-to-time in the future.

If you find any post on this blog site useful, you can save it or copy and paste it into your own "Word" document etc. for your future reference. For example, Safari allows you to save a post (e.g. click on "File", click on "Print" and release, click on "PDF" and then click on "Save As" and release - and a PDF should appear where you have stored it). Safari also allows you to mail a post to a friend (click on "File", and then point cursor to "Mail Contents On This Page" and release). Either way, this or other posts on this site may be a useful Art Resource for you.

The Art Resource series will be the first post in each calendar month. Remember - these Art Resource posts span information that will be useful for a home hobbyist to that required by a final year University Fine-Art student and so undoubtedly, some parts of any Art Resource post may appear far too technical for your needs (skip over those mind boggling parts) and in other parts, it may be too simplistic with respect to your level of knowledge (ditto the skip). The trade-off between these two extremes will mean that Art Resource posts will hopefully be useful in parts to most, but unfortunately may not be satisfying to all!


Introduction
Disperse dyes are classified according to their application. That is, they are dispersed or suspended by a dispersion agent in water, since they are characterized by not having strong polar group(s) and so they are only sparingly soluble in water. Structurally they belong to three main classes – nitroarylamine, azo and anthraquinone.

Structure of a disperse dye - disperse orange 3.
Note: This dye can also be classified as an azoic dye (due to the azo link, -N=N-).
Courtesy of reference [1].

Since they are hydrophobic, van der Waals forces (i.e. dispersion forces) and hydrogen bonding are important in order for disperse dyes to adhere to fibers. They are compatible with hydrophobic fibers, such as polyesters, polyamides, acetates, and less often, used with nylon and acrylics.

Artist: Marie-Therese Wisniowski.
Title: Wangi's Djirang (ArtCloth).
Note: 16th print out of 40 unique state prints.
Technique and Media: The artist's signature MultiSperse Dye Sublimation (MSDS) technique employing disperse dyes, native flora and multiple resists on delustered satin.


Dyeing With Disperse Dyes
Disperse dyes are added to water with a surface-active agent to form an aqueous dispersion. The insolubility of the disperse dyes enables them to leave the dye liquor as they are more substantive to the organic fiber than to the relatively inorganic aqueous dye liquor. The application of heat to the dye liquor increases the translation and vibration energy of dye molecules and accelerates the dyeing of the textile fiber.

Heating the dye liquor swells the fiber to some extent and assists the dye to penetrate the fiber polymer surface, resulting in the dye being located in the amorphous regions of the fiber. Once within the fiber surface, the dye molecules are held to the fiber by van der Waals' forces and hydrogen bonds.

Polyester fibers are extremely crystalline and hydrophobic, and it is difficult to obtain medium to dark shades even by dyeing at the boil. In order to obtain medium to dark shades, polyester fibers are dyed using carriers or by using high temperature dyeing techniques.

Some of the vast array of hues available with disperse dyes.
Courtesy - http://detail.en.china.cn


Dyeing with Carriers
The extremely crystalline nature of polyester fibers presented difficulties in obtaining dark shades by conventional dyeing methods, even with the temperature of the dye liquor at the boil. It was later discovered that certain organic compounds assisted disperse dyes to enter the polyester fiber polymer enabling the production of darker shades. The actual mechanism is still in debate. However, the most common explanation is that the carriers swell the polyester fiber polymer and in doing so opens channels for the dye to enter the amorphous region of the fiber and so enables more dye to adhere to the fiber.

High Temperature Dyeing
This dyeing technique is carried out at a temperature above the boil (i.e. in the range of 100-130oC) and under pressure from 0 to 170kPa. This method of dyeing is also called pressure dyeing and it is generally used for highly crystalline synthetic fibers or fiber blends containing these fibers. The technique causes fibers to swell at more than 100oC and so opening up channels for the dye to penetrate deeper into the fiber's polymer system, due to an increase in the fibers' surface molecular vibrations.

High temperature dyeing is particularly useful for dyeing polyester fibers. It eliminates the need for carriers, which adds extra cost as well as reduce OH & S issues (e.g. reduction of unpleasant odors), both of which need to be removed by thorough scouring and rinsing of the material.


Printing With Disperse Dyes
Disperse dyes can be applied to textiles via normal Printing methods. Dye fixation in the fiber polymer system is achieved by wet or dry steaming. In both cases the heat applied increases the translational and vibrational energy of the dye molecules, ensuring their adequate penetration of the fiber polymer system.

Transfer Printing
Disperse dyes are utilized in what is commonly termed "transfer printing". In reality this process should be termed sublimation printing. Sublimation describes a process that goes from a solid state to a gas state without passing though a liquid state. Dry ice has this property.

In sublimation printing once the dye has been painted on a paper and is dry, the painted side of the paper is placed on top of the fabric surface that is to be dyed. Then heat is applied via an iron or a heat press (under pressure) to the back of the dry dyed paper. The dye vaporizes from the paper and infuses into the surface of the target fabric. The vapor dye reacts with the target fabric surface and adheres to it via dispersion forces and hydrogen bonding. The heat of the iron serves a dual purpose: (a) it vaporizes the dye; (b) it assists the dye to infuse into the fabric surface and adhere to it.

We need to examine (a) and (b) more closely in order to appreciate the importance of the amount of heat applied in the disperse dye process. With respect to (a), the more heat that is applied the more dye is vaporized, and so the more dye is available for uptake and adhesion to the fabric. With respect to (b), the more heat that is applied (under pressure) the more vigorously the surface fiber molecules vibrate, the more passages become available for the vaporized dye to venture into the voids of the amorphous region of the fiber, the greater the promotion of dye uptake and adhesion to the fabric.  That is why the amount of heat applied by the iron or heat press is so important since it determines the amount of dye that sublimates, the amount of dye the fabric uptakes and adheres to. Parts (a) and (b) work hand in hand to achieve that end. Not enough applied heat results in a very pale dyed fabric. However, there is a trade-off. The more heat you apply the greater the possibility of damaging the fabric and the transfer paper. You need to walk this tight rope for each fabric and paper you choose.

Finally, the transfer printing process is used mainly on textile materials with at least 65% thermoplastic fibers and so invariably disperse dyes are used.


Properties of Disperse Dyes
Light-Fastness
Textile materials that have been colored by disperse dyes have a fair-to-good light-fastness. The light-fastness is ca. 4-5. This is attributed in part to the non-polar nature of dye molecules, which will not readily attract water molecules and other polar compounds that may have a degrading effect. Furthermore, the aromatic, that is the benzene-like structure of disperse dyes, gives them a relative stable structure. Only prolonged exposure to UV light will cause any significant loss of color to occur in a disperse dyed colored textile material.

Wash-Fastness
Textile materials colored with disperse dyes have a moderate-to-good wash-fastness, with a rating about 3-4. This is partly attributed to the insolubility of disperse dye molecules and due to the hydrophobic nature of their fibers.

Gas-Fading
In the presence of nitrous oxide, textile materials dyed with certain blue and violet disperse dyes (with an anthraquinone structure) will fade.

Nitrous oxide is produced by open gas fires or when nitrogen and oxygen are forced to react by the red hot elements of electric heaters.

Fading caused by nitrous oxide can be minimized by treating the textile material with a chemical based on an azoic thiophene-benzene complex. The improved resistance to gas fading occurs because nitrous oxide will react with this complex in preference to the disperse dye molecule.

Sublimation
Fading of textile materials colored with disperse dyes can occur, if excessive hot pressing or ironing is applied during the transfer printing process. This is due to the excessive heat and pressure which causes the disperse dye to vaporize or sublime and leave the fiber. Fading may even be apparent after the application of the heat.


References:
[1] A Fritz and J. Cant, Consumer Textiles, Oxford University Press, Melbourne (1986).
[2] E.P.G. Gohl and L.D. Vilensky, Textile Science, Longman Cheshire, Melbourne (1989).