Preamble
This is the ninety-fifth post in the "Art Resource" series, specifically aimed to construct an appropriate knowledge base in order to develop an artistic voice in ArtCloth.
Other posts in this series are:
Glossary of Cultural and Architectural Terms
Units Used in Dyeing and Printing of Fabrics
Occupational, Health & Safety
A Brief History of Color
The Nature of Color
Psychology of Color
Color Schemes
The Naming of Colors
The Munsell Color Classification System
Methuen Color Index and Classification System
The CIE System
Pantone - A Modern Color Classification System
Optical Properties of Fiber Materials
General Properties of Fiber Polymers and Fibers - Part I
General Properties of Fiber Polymers and Fibers - Part II
General Properties of Fiber Polymers and Fibers - Part III
General Properties of Fiber Polymers and Fibers - Part IV
General Properties of Fiber Polymers and Fibers - Part V
Protein Fibers - Wool
Protein Fibers - Speciality Hair Fibers
Protein Fibers - Silk
Protein Fibers - Wool versus Silk
Timelines of Fabrics, Dyes and Other Stuff
Cellulosic Fibers (Natural) - Cotton
Cellulosic Fibers (Natural) - Linen
Other Natural Cellulosic Fibers
General Overview of Man-Made Fibers
Man-Made Cellulosic Fibers - Viscose
Man-Made Cellulosic Fibers - Esters
Man-Made Synthetic Fibers - Nylon
Man-Made Synthetic Fibers - Polyester
Man-Made Synthetic Fibers - Acrylic and Modacrylic
Man-Made Synthetic Fibers - Olefins
Man-Made Synthetic Fibers - Elastomers
Man-Made Synthetic Fibers - Mineral Fibers
Man Made Fibers - Other Textile Fibers
Fiber Blends
From Fiber to Yarn: Overview - Part I
From Fiber to Yarn: Overview - Part II
Melt-Spun Fibers
Characteristics of Filament Yarn
Yarn Classification
Direct Spun Yarns
Textured Filament Yarns
Fabric Construction - Felt
Fabric Construction - Nonwoven fabrics
A Fashion Data Base
Fabric Construction - Leather
Fabric Construction - Films
Glossary of Colors, Dyes, Inks, Pigments and Resins
Fabric Construction – Foams and Poromeric Material
Knitting
Hosiery
Glossary of Fabrics, Fibers, Finishes, Garments and Yarns
Weaving and the Loom
Similarities and Differences in Woven Fabrics
The Three Basic Weaves - Plain Weave (Part I)
The Three Basic Weaves - Plain Weave (Part II)
The Three Basic Weaves - Twill Weave
The Three Basic Weaves - Satin Weave
Figured Weaves - Leno Weave
Figured Weaves – Piqué Weave
Figured Fabrics
Glossary of Art, Artists, Art Motifs and Art Movements
Crêpe Fabrics
Crêpe Effect Fabrics
Pile Fabrics - General
Woven Pile Fabrics
Chenille Yarn and Tufted Pile Fabrics
Knit-Pile Fabrics
Flocked Pile Fabrics and Other Pile Construction Processes
Glossary of Paper, Photography, Printing, Prints and Publication Terms
Napped Fabrics – Part I
Napped Fabrics – Part II
Double Cloth
Multicomponent Fabrics
Knit-Sew or Stitch Through Fabrics
Finishes - Overview
Finishes - Initial Fabric Cleaning
Mechanical Finishes - Part I
Mechanical Finishes - Part II
Additive Finishes
Chemical Finishes - Bleaching
Glossary of Scientific Terms
Chemical Finishes - Acid Finishes
Finishes: Mercerization
Finishes: Waterproof and Water-Repellent Fabrics
Finishes: Flame-Proofed Fabrics
Finishes to Prevent Attack by Insects and Micro-Organisms
Other Finishes
Shrinkage - Part I
Shrinkage - Part II
Progressive Shrinkage and Methods of Control
Durable Press and Wash-and-Wear Finishes - Part I
Durable Press and Wash-and-Wear Finishes - Part II
Durable Press and Wash-and-Wear Finishes - Part III
Durable Press and Wash-and-Wear Finishes - Part IV
Durable Press and Wash-and-Wear Finishes - Part V
The General Theory of Dyeing – Part I
The General Theory Of Dyeing - Part II
Natural Dyes
Natural Dyes - Indigo
Mordant Dyes
Premetallized Dyes
Azoic Dyes
Basic Dyes
Acid Dyes
Disperse Dyes
Direct Dyes
Reactive Dyes
Sulfur Dyes
Blends – Fibers and Direct Dyeing
The General Theory of Printing
There are currently eight data bases on this blogspot, namely, the Glossary of Cultural and Architectural Terms, Timelines of Fabrics, Dyes and Other Stuff, A Fashion Data Base, the Glossary of Colors, Dyes, Inks, Pigments and Resins, the Glossary of Fabrics, Fibers, Finishes, Garments and Yarns, Glossary of Art, Artists, Art Motifs and Art Movements, Glossary of Paper, Photography, Printing, Prints and Publication Terms and the Glossary of Scientific Terms, which has been updated to Version 3.5. All data bases will be updated from time-to-time in the future.
If you find any post on this blog site useful, you can save it or copy and paste it into your own "Word" document etc. for your future reference. For example, Safari allows you to save a post (e.g. click on "File", click on "Print" and release, click on "PDF" and then click on "Save As" and release - and a PDF should appear where you have stored it). Safari also allows you to mail a post to a friend (click on "File", and then point cursor to "Mail Contents On This Page" and release). Either way, this or other posts on this site may be a useful Art Resource for you.
The Art Resource series will be the first post in each calendar month. Remember - these Art Resource posts span information that will be useful for a home hobbyist to that required by a final year University Fine-Art student and so undoubtedly, some parts of any Art Resource post may appear far too technical for your needs (skip over those mind boggling parts) and in other parts, it may be too simplistic with respect to your level of knowledge (ditto the skip). The trade-off between these two extremes will mean that Art Resource posts will hopefully be useful in parts to most, but unfortunately may not be satisfying to all!
Durable Press and Wash-and-Wear Finishes - Part III[1](Overview)
I. Wash-and-Wear with Thermoplastic Fibers
No chemical is needed.
Flat fabric or garments are heat-set by dry or moist heat.
II. Wash-and-Wear Finish of Flat Fabric.
Conventional Method
Saturate the fabric with the resin cross-linking solution and dry.
Cure in a curing oven (cross links form between molecular chains).
Cut and sew garment. Press with iron.
The figure below shows the steps involved in the process.
Advantages:
Fabric has good wrinkle recovery (when properly finished) if "good" laundry procedures are used.
Less loss of strength and abrasion resistance than durable-press.
Disadvantages:
Fabric resists being shaped into garment; creases are difficult to press, seams pucker etc.
Exhibits other problems common to durable press (see below).
Old Trade Names:
Discipline cotton (Bates).
Regulated cotton (Penney's).
Belfast (Deering-Millikin).
If Sanforized, the fabrics were labeled Sanforized Plus.
III. Durable-Press Finish for Garment.
Postcure Process
Saturate the cloth with a resin cross-linking solution and dry.
Cut and sew garment and press shape with a hot-heat press.
Cure by putting pressed garment into a curing oven at 325 to 250o F.
The figure below show the steps in the process.
Advantages:
Garment retains shape and smoothness. Wide range of blends may be processed.
Disadvantages:
Higher level of resins needed.
Garment alteration is difficult.
Some garment shrinkage occurs so garments need to be cut oversize (see discussion of problems).
Old Trade Names:
Koratron (Korot of California).
Dan-Press (Dan River Mills).
Reeve-set (Reeves Bros.)
IV. Durable-Press Finish for Garments.
Precured Process (Recured Process).
Treat fabric with cross-linking resin (sulfone) solutions and dry.
Cure in the flat state.
Cut and sew the garment.
Set or secure the garment shape in the hot-heat press.
The setting temperature must be higher than the flat fabric curing temperature. Its purpose is chiefly to set the shape of the thermoplastic fibers in the blend.
Hot heat press for procure (secure).
Old Trade Names:
Coneprest (Cone Mills).
Burma-Crease (Burlington Mills).
V. Durable-Press Finish on Garments
Vapor Phase Process
For 100% Cotton: Garment, preimpregnated with cross-linking agents is put in a reaction chamber which is then closed.
A gas (e.g. nitrogen, air or carbon dioxide) is passed through the vapor reagent and on into the chamber.
Reaction with impregnated garment takes place.
Advantages:
No baking at high temperature.
Higher overall strength.
Resistant to chlorine.
Durable to laundering.
Softer fabric.
Low add-on (2 to 3%).
Old Trade Name: Commercialized by Dubin-Haskell-Jacobson.
Reference:
[1] N. Hollen and J. Saddler, Textiles, 3rd Edition, MacMillan Company, London (1968).
This is the ninety-fifth post in the "Art Resource" series, specifically aimed to construct an appropriate knowledge base in order to develop an artistic voice in ArtCloth.
Other posts in this series are:
Glossary of Cultural and Architectural Terms
Units Used in Dyeing and Printing of Fabrics
Occupational, Health & Safety
A Brief History of Color
The Nature of Color
Psychology of Color
Color Schemes
The Naming of Colors
The Munsell Color Classification System
Methuen Color Index and Classification System
The CIE System
Pantone - A Modern Color Classification System
Optical Properties of Fiber Materials
General Properties of Fiber Polymers and Fibers - Part I
General Properties of Fiber Polymers and Fibers - Part II
General Properties of Fiber Polymers and Fibers - Part III
General Properties of Fiber Polymers and Fibers - Part IV
General Properties of Fiber Polymers and Fibers - Part V
Protein Fibers - Wool
Protein Fibers - Speciality Hair Fibers
Protein Fibers - Silk
Protein Fibers - Wool versus Silk
Timelines of Fabrics, Dyes and Other Stuff
Cellulosic Fibers (Natural) - Cotton
Cellulosic Fibers (Natural) - Linen
Other Natural Cellulosic Fibers
General Overview of Man-Made Fibers
Man-Made Cellulosic Fibers - Viscose
Man-Made Cellulosic Fibers - Esters
Man-Made Synthetic Fibers - Nylon
Man-Made Synthetic Fibers - Polyester
Man-Made Synthetic Fibers - Acrylic and Modacrylic
Man-Made Synthetic Fibers - Olefins
Man-Made Synthetic Fibers - Elastomers
Man-Made Synthetic Fibers - Mineral Fibers
Man Made Fibers - Other Textile Fibers
Fiber Blends
From Fiber to Yarn: Overview - Part I
From Fiber to Yarn: Overview - Part II
Melt-Spun Fibers
Characteristics of Filament Yarn
Yarn Classification
Direct Spun Yarns
Textured Filament Yarns
Fabric Construction - Felt
Fabric Construction - Nonwoven fabrics
A Fashion Data Base
Fabric Construction - Leather
Fabric Construction - Films
Glossary of Colors, Dyes, Inks, Pigments and Resins
Fabric Construction – Foams and Poromeric Material
Knitting
Hosiery
Glossary of Fabrics, Fibers, Finishes, Garments and Yarns
Weaving and the Loom
Similarities and Differences in Woven Fabrics
The Three Basic Weaves - Plain Weave (Part I)
The Three Basic Weaves - Plain Weave (Part II)
The Three Basic Weaves - Twill Weave
The Three Basic Weaves - Satin Weave
Figured Weaves - Leno Weave
Figured Weaves – Piqué Weave
Figured Fabrics
Glossary of Art, Artists, Art Motifs and Art Movements
Crêpe Fabrics
Crêpe Effect Fabrics
Pile Fabrics - General
Woven Pile Fabrics
Chenille Yarn and Tufted Pile Fabrics
Knit-Pile Fabrics
Flocked Pile Fabrics and Other Pile Construction Processes
Glossary of Paper, Photography, Printing, Prints and Publication Terms
Napped Fabrics – Part I
Napped Fabrics – Part II
Double Cloth
Multicomponent Fabrics
Knit-Sew or Stitch Through Fabrics
Finishes - Overview
Finishes - Initial Fabric Cleaning
Mechanical Finishes - Part I
Mechanical Finishes - Part II
Additive Finishes
Chemical Finishes - Bleaching
Glossary of Scientific Terms
Chemical Finishes - Acid Finishes
Finishes: Mercerization
Finishes: Waterproof and Water-Repellent Fabrics
Finishes: Flame-Proofed Fabrics
Finishes to Prevent Attack by Insects and Micro-Organisms
Other Finishes
Shrinkage - Part I
Shrinkage - Part II
Progressive Shrinkage and Methods of Control
Durable Press and Wash-and-Wear Finishes - Part I
Durable Press and Wash-and-Wear Finishes - Part II
Durable Press and Wash-and-Wear Finishes - Part III
Durable Press and Wash-and-Wear Finishes - Part IV
Durable Press and Wash-and-Wear Finishes - Part V
The General Theory of Dyeing – Part I
The General Theory Of Dyeing - Part II
Natural Dyes
Natural Dyes - Indigo
Mordant Dyes
Premetallized Dyes
Azoic Dyes
Basic Dyes
Acid Dyes
Disperse Dyes
Direct Dyes
Reactive Dyes
Sulfur Dyes
Blends – Fibers and Direct Dyeing
The General Theory of Printing
There are currently eight data bases on this blogspot, namely, the Glossary of Cultural and Architectural Terms, Timelines of Fabrics, Dyes and Other Stuff, A Fashion Data Base, the Glossary of Colors, Dyes, Inks, Pigments and Resins, the Glossary of Fabrics, Fibers, Finishes, Garments and Yarns, Glossary of Art, Artists, Art Motifs and Art Movements, Glossary of Paper, Photography, Printing, Prints and Publication Terms and the Glossary of Scientific Terms, which has been updated to Version 3.5. All data bases will be updated from time-to-time in the future.
If you find any post on this blog site useful, you can save it or copy and paste it into your own "Word" document etc. for your future reference. For example, Safari allows you to save a post (e.g. click on "File", click on "Print" and release, click on "PDF" and then click on "Save As" and release - and a PDF should appear where you have stored it). Safari also allows you to mail a post to a friend (click on "File", and then point cursor to "Mail Contents On This Page" and release). Either way, this or other posts on this site may be a useful Art Resource for you.
The Art Resource series will be the first post in each calendar month. Remember - these Art Resource posts span information that will be useful for a home hobbyist to that required by a final year University Fine-Art student and so undoubtedly, some parts of any Art Resource post may appear far too technical for your needs (skip over those mind boggling parts) and in other parts, it may be too simplistic with respect to your level of knowledge (ditto the skip). The trade-off between these two extremes will mean that Art Resource posts will hopefully be useful in parts to most, but unfortunately may not be satisfying to all!
Durable Press and Wash-and-Wear Finishes - Part III[1](Overview)
I. Wash-and-Wear with Thermoplastic Fibers
No chemical is needed.
Flat fabric or garments are heat-set by dry or moist heat.
II. Wash-and-Wear Finish of Flat Fabric.
Conventional Method
Saturate the fabric with the resin cross-linking solution and dry.
Cure in a curing oven (cross links form between molecular chains).
Cut and sew garment. Press with iron.
The figure below shows the steps involved in the process.
Advantages:
Fabric has good wrinkle recovery (when properly finished) if "good" laundry procedures are used.
Less loss of strength and abrasion resistance than durable-press.
Disadvantages:
Fabric resists being shaped into garment; creases are difficult to press, seams pucker etc.
Exhibits other problems common to durable press (see below).
Old Trade Names:
Discipline cotton (Bates).
Regulated cotton (Penney's).
Belfast (Deering-Millikin).
If Sanforized, the fabrics were labeled Sanforized Plus.
III. Durable-Press Finish for Garment.
Postcure Process
Saturate the cloth with a resin cross-linking solution and dry.
Cut and sew garment and press shape with a hot-heat press.
Cure by putting pressed garment into a curing oven at 325 to 250o F.
The figure below show the steps in the process.
Advantages:
Garment retains shape and smoothness. Wide range of blends may be processed.
Disadvantages:
Higher level of resins needed.
Garment alteration is difficult.
Some garment shrinkage occurs so garments need to be cut oversize (see discussion of problems).
Old Trade Names:
Koratron (Korot of California).
Dan-Press (Dan River Mills).
Reeve-set (Reeves Bros.)
IV. Durable-Press Finish for Garments.
Precured Process (Recured Process).
Treat fabric with cross-linking resin (sulfone) solutions and dry.
Cure in the flat state.
Cut and sew the garment.
Set or secure the garment shape in the hot-heat press.
The setting temperature must be higher than the flat fabric curing temperature. Its purpose is chiefly to set the shape of the thermoplastic fibers in the blend.
Old Trade Names:
Coneprest (Cone Mills).
Burma-Crease (Burlington Mills).
V. Durable-Press Finish on Garments
Vapor Phase Process
For 100% Cotton: Garment, preimpregnated with cross-linking agents is put in a reaction chamber which is then closed.
A gas (e.g. nitrogen, air or carbon dioxide) is passed through the vapor reagent and on into the chamber.
Reaction with impregnated garment takes place.
Advantages:
No baking at high temperature.
Higher overall strength.
Resistant to chlorine.
Durable to laundering.
Softer fabric.
Low add-on (2 to 3%).
Old Trade Name: Commercialized by Dubin-Haskell-Jacobson.
Reference:
[1] N. Hollen and J. Saddler, Textiles, 3rd Edition, MacMillan Company, London (1968).
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