Saturday, July 28, 2018

Crewel Work or Old English Crewel Embroidery
Works on Cloth

Marie-Therese Wisniowski

Preamble
For your convenience I have listed below the other post in this series:
Crewel Embroidery


Introduction [1-2]
Crewel embroidery conjures up images of rich, free-flowing designs, often incorporating flowers, leaves and fruit. Its distinguishing characteristic is the worsted woolen yarn used.

Crewel threads.

The word "crewel" is believed tp have been derived from the Anglo-Saxon cleow (later clew and cruel) meaning a ball of thread.

Crewel work was especially popular during the 17th Century in England and the 18th Century in America, although far earlier examples still exist, notably the 11th Century Bayeux Tapestry.

Bayeux Tapestry.

An important influence on the development of crewel work was the growth of trade with the orient during the 17th Century, when needle work women were inspired by the beautiful Indian and Chinese embroideries. The "tree of life" designs that became a traditional feature of crewel work were introduced to England from India during this time.

Tracing pattern for family tree.

In both England and America, bed curtains, covers and cushions were the most common items chosen for this form of decoration. Crewel embroidery can still be applied successfully to such items as well as to pictures and wall hangings.

An early 18th-Century example of English crewel work seen in this detail from a bed hanging.

Cover for a stool by Mourna Sturrock, Melbourne (Australia) 1980s.
Photograph courtesy of J. Millowick.

Crewel work is sometimes known as Stuart or Jacobean work.


Basic Materials

Fabrics
Even weave linen or linen twill are the traditional fabrics for crewel work, but any firmly woven cloth is suitable, such as heavy cotton, with threads that can be separated from a needle.

Yarns
Choose the yarn to suit the fabric and to achieve the texture required. Crewel yarn itself is quite fine, but several strands can be used together for bolder stitches on fine to medium fabrics. Tapestry yarn can also be used to similar effect. For coarse fabrics, use rug or knitting yarn.

Needles
Use a crewel or chenille needle that will make an opening in the fabric just large enough for the thread to pass through without breaking the fabric weave. Tapestry needles are useful for stitches woven on the surface of the fabric.


Stitches
Most of the stitches used in embroidery are suitable for crewel work and it is very satisfying to develop the skill of choosing the right stitches for different motifs. An embroidery frame, though not necessary for all stitches, is essential for some such as crouching.

Some stitches used in crewel work.


Jacobean or Trellis
This filling stitch is traditionally used for the centres of flowers or for shapes where an open lattice effect is required. Take long, evenly spaced stitches across the space horizontally and vertically or diagonally and secure with one stitch (shown) or a cross stitch at each intersection.

Jacobean Couching or Trellis.


Some Crewel Creations

Screen of Crewel Embroidery by Sarah Squire Todd.
Hobart (Australia) ca. 1920.
Collection Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery.
Photograph courtesy of L. Zeeng.

A quiet moment of a young Geisha woman quietly arranging flowers is forever captured for the crewel embroidery artist in Pat Zitomer’s "Oriental Arranging Flowers".

Crewel Work Artist unidentified New England, probably Massachusetts.
American Folk Art Museum, gift of Ralph Esmerian.

Petticoat border American (New England) 1758.
Accession Number 40.571 Boston Museum of Fine Arts.

Crewel Embroidery (England), 18th Century.

Beautiful Jacobean Crewel Embroidery using Gold Metallic Thread.
Victoria and Albert Museum.

17th Century Crewel Embroidery: Lemons.
Victoria and Albert Museum.


References:
[1] J. Isaacs, The Gentle Arts, Ure Smith Press, Sydney (1991).

[2] Creative Crafts Encyclopedia, Octopus Books, London (1977).

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