Preamble
For your convenience I have listed below other posts in this series on Chinese textiles:
Chinese Textiles: Amy Clague's Brocade Collection (Part I)
Chinese Textiles: Amy Clague's Tapestry Collection (Part I)
Chinese Textiles: Amy Clague’s Tapestry Collection (Part II)
Chinese Textiles: Amy Clague’s Embroidery Collection (Part I)
Chinese Clothing Historical Overview (Part I)
Chinese Clothing Historical Overview (Part II)
Chinese Clothing Historical Overview (Part II) [1]
By the time of the Song Dynasty (960-1279) the Han women had developed the tradition of chest-binding, resulting in the rise in popularity of the elegant, cloak-like beizi favored by women of all ages and all social backgrounds.
Song Dynasty women wearing beizi (褙子), Northern Song dynasty (960–1127 AD).
The Yuan Dynasty (1206-1368) was established by the Mongols when they unified China. The Mongols at the time wore mao li or triangular hats, and men often wore earrings. The official dress code became a mixture of Han and Mongols styles.
Traditional Mongolian Dress.
When power again transferred to the Han people, the rulers of the Ming dynasty (1368-1644) created laws prohibiting the previous dynasty's Mongol language, surnames and clothing, resulting in a return to the dress style of the Tang dynasty. The official uniform of the Ming Dynasty was intended to reflect a sense of dignity and splendor, as demonstrated by the complex forms, styles and dressing rituals of the emperor and officials of all levels.
Ming Dynasty ladies dress.
The Qing Dynasty, lasting over two hundred years (1644-1911) was a period which saw significant changes in clothing style. The rulers tried to force the Manchurian dress style on the Han people, and this was met with strong resistance. A later cmpromise by the government led to a combination of the two dress styles. The mandarin long gown (changpao) and the jacket (magua) was the quintessential Qing style.
Traditional Chinese Qing Dynasty Dress for Women.
Traditional Chinese Qing Dynasty Dress for Men.
After 1840, China entered the modern era. Coastal cities, especially metropolises like Shanghai with their mixed population of foreign and native residents, led the change towards western style clothing under the influence of European and American fashion trends. Industrialization in textile weaving and dyeing in the west brought about the import of low cost materials, gradually replacing domestic materials made in traditional ways. Fashionable and intricately-made ready-to-wear garments in western styles found their way into the Chinese market, as well as large-scale, machine-consuming traditional techniques of hand rolling, bordering, inlay and embroidery.
Wedding dresses manufactured in Hong Kong for today's market.
Looking back at twentieth-century Chinese clothing, we see a wide array of styles of qipao, cheongsam, the SunYet-sen uniform, student uniforms, western suits, hats, silk stockings, bell-bottoms, jeans, miniskirts, bikinis and punk styles, all representing different eras. The qipao is now regarded as typical Chinese dress style, only became popular in the 1920s. Originating as Manchurian women's dress, incorporating Han clothing techniques and the styles of twentieth-century western dresses, it has now evolved into a major fashion item within the international fashion industry.
Qipao dress.
China, as a country made up of fifty-six ethnic groups that have continually interacted, has undergone continuous transformation in dress style and customs. Style distinctions are not only evident between different dynasties, but are also quite pronounced even in different periods within the same dynasty. The defining characteristics of Chinese clothing are bright colors, skilled craftsmanship and ornate detail. Diversity in style can be seen between different ethnic groups, living environments, local customs, lifestyles and aesthetic tastes. Chinese folk clothing is deeply rooted in daily life and activities of the people and many traditional folk styles and accessories are still popular today, for example, red velvet flower hair accessories, embroidered keepsakes, coil hats and raincoats made of natural fiber, not to mention handmade children's tiger-head hats and shoes, pig-head shoes and cat-head shoes.
Progress of modernization is having an effect on the ethnic character of dress style. However in rural areas a wide array of beautiful garments and ornaments are still very much part of the local lifestyle and landscape.
The traditional image of a worker wearing a front closure Chinese jacket in October 2009.
Four Chinese designers held a joint fashion show in Shanghai Fashion Week in October 2009.
Reference:
[1] Chinese Clothing, H. Mei, Cambridge University Press (2011).
For your convenience I have listed below other posts in this series on Chinese textiles:
Chinese Textiles: Amy Clague's Brocade Collection (Part I)
Chinese Textiles: Amy Clague's Tapestry Collection (Part I)
Chinese Textiles: Amy Clague’s Tapestry Collection (Part II)
Chinese Textiles: Amy Clague’s Embroidery Collection (Part I)
Chinese Clothing Historical Overview (Part I)
Chinese Clothing Historical Overview (Part II)
Chinese Clothing Historical Overview (Part II) [1]
By the time of the Song Dynasty (960-1279) the Han women had developed the tradition of chest-binding, resulting in the rise in popularity of the elegant, cloak-like beizi favored by women of all ages and all social backgrounds.
The Yuan Dynasty (1206-1368) was established by the Mongols when they unified China. The Mongols at the time wore mao li or triangular hats, and men often wore earrings. The official dress code became a mixture of Han and Mongols styles.
When power again transferred to the Han people, the rulers of the Ming dynasty (1368-1644) created laws prohibiting the previous dynasty's Mongol language, surnames and clothing, resulting in a return to the dress style of the Tang dynasty. The official uniform of the Ming Dynasty was intended to reflect a sense of dignity and splendor, as demonstrated by the complex forms, styles and dressing rituals of the emperor and officials of all levels.
The Qing Dynasty, lasting over two hundred years (1644-1911) was a period which saw significant changes in clothing style. The rulers tried to force the Manchurian dress style on the Han people, and this was met with strong resistance. A later cmpromise by the government led to a combination of the two dress styles. The mandarin long gown (changpao) and the jacket (magua) was the quintessential Qing style.
After 1840, China entered the modern era. Coastal cities, especially metropolises like Shanghai with their mixed population of foreign and native residents, led the change towards western style clothing under the influence of European and American fashion trends. Industrialization in textile weaving and dyeing in the west brought about the import of low cost materials, gradually replacing domestic materials made in traditional ways. Fashionable and intricately-made ready-to-wear garments in western styles found their way into the Chinese market, as well as large-scale, machine-consuming traditional techniques of hand rolling, bordering, inlay and embroidery.
Looking back at twentieth-century Chinese clothing, we see a wide array of styles of qipao, cheongsam, the SunYet-sen uniform, student uniforms, western suits, hats, silk stockings, bell-bottoms, jeans, miniskirts, bikinis and punk styles, all representing different eras. The qipao is now regarded as typical Chinese dress style, only became popular in the 1920s. Originating as Manchurian women's dress, incorporating Han clothing techniques and the styles of twentieth-century western dresses, it has now evolved into a major fashion item within the international fashion industry.
China, as a country made up of fifty-six ethnic groups that have continually interacted, has undergone continuous transformation in dress style and customs. Style distinctions are not only evident between different dynasties, but are also quite pronounced even in different periods within the same dynasty. The defining characteristics of Chinese clothing are bright colors, skilled craftsmanship and ornate detail. Diversity in style can be seen between different ethnic groups, living environments, local customs, lifestyles and aesthetic tastes. Chinese folk clothing is deeply rooted in daily life and activities of the people and many traditional folk styles and accessories are still popular today, for example, red velvet flower hair accessories, embroidered keepsakes, coil hats and raincoats made of natural fiber, not to mention handmade children's tiger-head hats and shoes, pig-head shoes and cat-head shoes.
Progress of modernization is having an effect on the ethnic character of dress style. However in rural areas a wide array of beautiful garments and ornaments are still very much part of the local lifestyle and landscape.
Reference:
[1] Chinese Clothing, H. Mei, Cambridge University Press (2011).
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