Preamble
For your convenience I have listed below other posts in this series on Chinese textiles:
Chinese Textiles: Amy Clague's Brocade Collection (Part I)
Chinese Textiles: Amy Clague's Tapestry Collection (Part I)
Chinese Textiles: Amy Clague’s Tapestry Collection (Part II)
Chinese Textiles: Amy Clague’s Embroidery Collection (Part I)
Chinese Textiles: Amy Clague’s Brocade Collection (Part II)
Chinese Clothing Historical Overview - Part 1
Chinese Clothing: Shenyi and Broad Sleeves - Part I
Chinese Clothing: Shenyi and Broad Sleeves - Part II
Introduction [1]
Chinese clothing has undergone continuous transformations throughout history, providing a reflection of the culture in place, at any given time. A wealth of archaeological findings coupled with ancient mythology, poetry and songs enable us to see the development of distinctive Chinese fashions through the ages. This illustrated introductory survey takes you through traditional Chinese clothing, ornamentation, and ceremonial wear, and so will cover the importance of silk and the diverse costumes of China's ethnic groups before considering modern trends and China's place in the fashion world of today.
A modern Chinese traditional dress.
Chinese Clothing Historical Overview (Part I) [1]
From the time that clothing first became part of people's lives it has represented differences in social status, lifestyle, aesthetics and culture. Clothing has always reflected the social and historical scenes of a given time. The history of Chinese clothing can therefore provide insights into the development of civilization itself.
Sui Dynasty women wore short jackets with short sleeves and long skirts. They tied the skirts at chest height, which made them look very elegant. This style of dress can still be seen on Korean women.
To the Chinese, clothing ranks very highly among life's necessities. In a country with a long history of garments and ornaments, there is a wealth of archeological findings illustrating the development of clothing, in addition to the evidence preserved in ancient mythology, chronicles, poems, songs, novels and drama.
Chinese clothing can be traced back to the late Paleolithic age (2.5 million years ago to 10,000 BC). Archeological findings have shown that approximateyl 20,000 years ago people who lived in what is now known as the Zhoukoudian area of Beijing were already wearing accessories, in the form of meticulously carved tiny white stone beads, olive-colored pebbles, animal teeth, clam shells and bones. Appearance was probably not the main concern of the people wearing accessories at this time, for accessories were also used as a means of protection against evil. People had developed the technique of sewing together animal skins.
A neclace, jade plate and fragment of jade excavated in a Neolithic site.
Photograph courtesy of Li Zhanqiang.
Over a thousand archeological sites dating to the Neolithic age (6,000-2,000 BC) have been found in China, across almost all areas of the country. The major means of food production during this age had transitioned from primitive hunting and fishing to more stable agriculture. There is also early evidence of weaving and pottery making. Ancient painted pottery from 5,000 years ago was found in Qinghai Province of western China, decorated with dancing figures. Some of these figures have decorative hair accessories, whilst others have ornamental waist bands. Some wear skirts which are more reminiscent of traditional Chinese attire.
A colored pottery basin excavated in Tongde County, Qinghai Province in 1975, with a pattern of people in skirts dancing and holding hands.
Photograph courtesy of Li Zhanqiang.
In the neighboring province of Gansu, similar items were excavated, decorated with images of people wearing what was later called the guankoushan. This was a typical style of early clothing which consisted of a piece of material with a hole in the middle for the head and a rope tied at the waist, giving the garment a dress-like appearance. Another piece of pottery shows a young girl with long hair, decorated with intricate patterns which give the appearance of a beautiful dress.
A colored pottery bottle with a "head" shape bottle neck excavated in Dadiwan, Gansu Province in 1973, a relic from 5,600 years ago.
Photograph courtesy of Li Zhanqiang.
In addition to clay pots, images of early Chinese clothing were found in rock paintings which showed people wearing earrings. Historical items have also been found in the Daxi Neolithic site of Wushan, Sichuan, including earrings made of jade, ivory and turquoise in a variety of shapes.
With the formation of different social classes came the creaton of rules and regulations on daily attire, in order to distinguish the rich from the poor. The Zhou Dynasty (1,046-256 BC) instigated national laws on clothing and personal accessories, creating different categories of clothing including court attire, army uniform, mourning attire and wedding attire. This tradition was broken during the Spring and Autumn Period (770-476 BC) and the Warring States Period (475-221 BC) when rigid rules on clothing and accessories were abolished, and the extravagant style of the aristocracy developed.
The Warring States Period (475-221 BC): Chinese traditional costume.
The rulers of the Han Dynasty (206-220 AD) followed the Zhou Dynasty in establishing laws on clothing and accessories. The style of dress was simple, and clothing colors categorized according to the seasons: Spring - green, Summer - red, Autumn - yellow and Winter - black.
The Wei, Jin, and Northern and Southern Dynasties (220-589), represented a period of ideological diversity, cultural prosperity and significant scientific development, despite frequent wars and changes in power. During this period, the Wei and Jin developed a distinctive aristocratic style. The traditional Han culture was tranformed by northern nomadic tribes when they migrated into central China and settled down with the Han people, influencing, and being influenced by, the Han style of dress.
Musicians dressed in Hanfu clothed with the Han style of dress.
When China was reunited during the Sui Dynasty (581-618), the Han dress code was revised again. During the Tang Dynasty (618-907) that followed, a strong national power and a more relaxed social order led to a new clothing style. For example, women typically wore a low-cut, short skirt dress or even narrow-sleeved men's clothing.
The picture above shows a Tang Dynasty lady with a double-drooping bun and a wide waist wrap. In the eighth century, Chinese Tang dresses spread into Japan and then exerted a great influence on the Japanese kimono. The kimono styles at the time had names such as 'Tang grass', 'Tang flower' and 'Tang brocade' and these continued to be used even today.
Reference:
[1] Chinese Clothing, H. Mei, Cambridge University Press (2011).
For your convenience I have listed below other posts in this series on Chinese textiles:
Chinese Textiles: Amy Clague's Brocade Collection (Part I)
Chinese Textiles: Amy Clague's Tapestry Collection (Part I)
Chinese Textiles: Amy Clague’s Tapestry Collection (Part II)
Chinese Textiles: Amy Clague’s Embroidery Collection (Part I)
Chinese Textiles: Amy Clague’s Brocade Collection (Part II)
Chinese Clothing Historical Overview - Part 1
Chinese Clothing: Shenyi and Broad Sleeves - Part I
Chinese Clothing: Shenyi and Broad Sleeves - Part II
Introduction [1]
Chinese clothing has undergone continuous transformations throughout history, providing a reflection of the culture in place, at any given time. A wealth of archaeological findings coupled with ancient mythology, poetry and songs enable us to see the development of distinctive Chinese fashions through the ages. This illustrated introductory survey takes you through traditional Chinese clothing, ornamentation, and ceremonial wear, and so will cover the importance of silk and the diverse costumes of China's ethnic groups before considering modern trends and China's place in the fashion world of today.
Chinese Clothing Historical Overview (Part I) [1]
From the time that clothing first became part of people's lives it has represented differences in social status, lifestyle, aesthetics and culture. Clothing has always reflected the social and historical scenes of a given time. The history of Chinese clothing can therefore provide insights into the development of civilization itself.
To the Chinese, clothing ranks very highly among life's necessities. In a country with a long history of garments and ornaments, there is a wealth of archeological findings illustrating the development of clothing, in addition to the evidence preserved in ancient mythology, chronicles, poems, songs, novels and drama.
Chinese clothing can be traced back to the late Paleolithic age (2.5 million years ago to 10,000 BC). Archeological findings have shown that approximateyl 20,000 years ago people who lived in what is now known as the Zhoukoudian area of Beijing were already wearing accessories, in the form of meticulously carved tiny white stone beads, olive-colored pebbles, animal teeth, clam shells and bones. Appearance was probably not the main concern of the people wearing accessories at this time, for accessories were also used as a means of protection against evil. People had developed the technique of sewing together animal skins.
Photograph courtesy of Li Zhanqiang.
Over a thousand archeological sites dating to the Neolithic age (6,000-2,000 BC) have been found in China, across almost all areas of the country. The major means of food production during this age had transitioned from primitive hunting and fishing to more stable agriculture. There is also early evidence of weaving and pottery making. Ancient painted pottery from 5,000 years ago was found in Qinghai Province of western China, decorated with dancing figures. Some of these figures have decorative hair accessories, whilst others have ornamental waist bands. Some wear skirts which are more reminiscent of traditional Chinese attire.
Photograph courtesy of Li Zhanqiang.
In the neighboring province of Gansu, similar items were excavated, decorated with images of people wearing what was later called the guankoushan. This was a typical style of early clothing which consisted of a piece of material with a hole in the middle for the head and a rope tied at the waist, giving the garment a dress-like appearance. Another piece of pottery shows a young girl with long hair, decorated with intricate patterns which give the appearance of a beautiful dress.
Photograph courtesy of Li Zhanqiang.
In addition to clay pots, images of early Chinese clothing were found in rock paintings which showed people wearing earrings. Historical items have also been found in the Daxi Neolithic site of Wushan, Sichuan, including earrings made of jade, ivory and turquoise in a variety of shapes.
With the formation of different social classes came the creaton of rules and regulations on daily attire, in order to distinguish the rich from the poor. The Zhou Dynasty (1,046-256 BC) instigated national laws on clothing and personal accessories, creating different categories of clothing including court attire, army uniform, mourning attire and wedding attire. This tradition was broken during the Spring and Autumn Period (770-476 BC) and the Warring States Period (475-221 BC) when rigid rules on clothing and accessories were abolished, and the extravagant style of the aristocracy developed.
The rulers of the Han Dynasty (206-220 AD) followed the Zhou Dynasty in establishing laws on clothing and accessories. The style of dress was simple, and clothing colors categorized according to the seasons: Spring - green, Summer - red, Autumn - yellow and Winter - black.
The Wei, Jin, and Northern and Southern Dynasties (220-589), represented a period of ideological diversity, cultural prosperity and significant scientific development, despite frequent wars and changes in power. During this period, the Wei and Jin developed a distinctive aristocratic style. The traditional Han culture was tranformed by northern nomadic tribes when they migrated into central China and settled down with the Han people, influencing, and being influenced by, the Han style of dress.
When China was reunited during the Sui Dynasty (581-618), the Han dress code was revised again. During the Tang Dynasty (618-907) that followed, a strong national power and a more relaxed social order led to a new clothing style. For example, women typically wore a low-cut, short skirt dress or even narrow-sleeved men's clothing.
Reference:
[1] Chinese Clothing, H. Mei, Cambridge University Press (2011).
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