Saturday, July 25, 2026

Traditional Indian Textiles - Part IV [1]
ArtCloth

Marie-Therese Wisniowski


Preamble
For your convenience I have listed below, the other posts in this series:
Traditional Indian Textiles - Part I
Traditional Indian Textiles - Part II
Traditional Indian Textiles - Part III


Introduction [1]
The earliest textile finds were made at Mohenjo-daro, an archaeological site of the third millennium BC on the Indus River.

Indus River
The Indus River is located in Asia, originating in the Himalayas and flowing through north-western India and along the length of Pakistan to empty into the Arabian Sea. The river basin spans Pakistan, India, China, and Afghanistan.

Archaeological ruins at Moenjo-daro, a UNESCO World Heritage Centre.

At that site, woven and madder-dyed cotton fragments wrapped round a silver pot had been preserved by the metallic salts that impregnated the cloth. The use of madder dye made fast with a mordant and the presence of dye vats at the sight, testify to an advanced understanding of the process of color mixing on cloth, and relief-carved stone sculpture from the dig clearly depicts figures draped with patterned cloth. Spindles were found at Mohenjo-daro and used, most probably to wind weft threads when working at a wooden loom; the presence of bronze needles at the site suggests that this Bronze-Age civilization embellished its woven cloth with embroidery or supplementary threadwork on the loom. From this evidence we may surmise that some peoples of the sub-continent were at least two, perhaps three millenia in advance of the European world in the preparation and use of cotton and mordanted dyestuff.


Traditional Indian Textiles - Part IV [1]

A Young Girl in Hodka Village
A young girl of the Meghwal caste tassel-making in Hodka village in Banni Kutch.

Goat-hair belt
Goat-hair belt made using the split-ply method - from west Rajasthan.

Ishwar Singh
Ishwar Singh, of Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, preparing a split-ply camel girth of goat hair.

'Dharaniyo' (cover for a pile of quilts), with floral designs and an embroidered border, made by the Ahir herders in Kutch. The central field is of 'roghan' work (the design is printed on with a mixture of thickened oil and pigment).

The three images below are 'Chaklas' (i.e., square hangings).

Made by the Rabari of Kutch
Made by the Rabari of Kutch.

Made by the Bharwad
Made by the Bharwad, or the Charan, Saurashtra.

A Ganesh chakla made by the Ahir herders
A Ganesh chakla made by the Ahir herders, Saurashtra.

Saktapar Sari
Double and single-ikat cotton 'sakapar' sari, with detailed border.

From Sambalpur District, Orissa
From Sambalpur District, Orissa.


Reference:
[1] Traditional Indian Textiles, John Gillow and Nicholas Barnard, Thams and Hudson, London (1993) ISBN 0-500-27709-5.

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