Preamble
For your convenience I have listed below other posts in this series on Chinese textiles:
Chinese Textiles: Amy Clague's Brocade Collection - Part I
Chinese Textiles: Amy Clague's Tapestry Collection - Part I
Chinese Textiles: Amy Clague’s Tapestry Collection - Part II
Chinese Textiles: Amy Clague’s Embroidery Collection - Part I
Chinese Textiles: Amy Clague’s Brocade Collection - Part II
Chinese Clothing: A Historical Overview - Part I
Chinese Clothing: Shenyi and Broad Sleeves - Part I
Chinese Clothing: Shenyi and Broad Sleeves - Part II
Chinese Clothing: A Historical Overview - Part II
Chinese Clothing: A Historical Overview - Part III
Chinese Clothing: A Historical Overview - Part III [1]
After 1840, China entered the modern era. Coastal cities, especially metropolises such as Shangai, with their mixed population of foreign and native residents, led the change towards western style under the influence of European and American fashion trends. Industrialization in textile weaving and dyeing in the West brought about the import of low cost materials, gradually replacing domestic materials made in traditional ways. Fashionable and intricately-made ready-to-wear garments in 'western' styles found their way onto the Chinese market, and large-scale, machine operated dress-making, became more popular than the time-consuming traditional techniques of hand rolling, bordering, inlay and embroidery.
At the end of the 19th Century, sewing machines imported from western countries had already been used in the traditional clothing industry.
Looking back at the twentieth-century Chinese clothing, we see a wide array of styles of qipao, cheongsam, the Sun Yet-sen uniform, student uniforms, western suits, hats, silk stockings, high heels, lenin jackets, military uniforms, bell-bottoms, flairs, jeans, mini-skirts, bikinis, punk styles, "Guochao" or "National Tide," which fuses traditional Chinese elements with contemporary designs of everyday wear. Key trends included the revival of traditional garments like hanfu and cheongsam, integrated with modern details such as unique tailoring, embroidery, and new materials. This movement reflected a growing national pride and a desire to blend cultural heritage with modern aesthetics.
The qipao now regarded as the typical Chinese dress style, only became popular in the 1920s. Originating as Manchurian woman's dress, incorporating Han clothing techniques and styles of twentieth century western dresses, it has now evolved into a major fashion item within the international fashion industry.
Floral pattern, jacquard silk satin long Qipao.
China is a country made up of fifty-six ethnic groups that have continually interacted, and have undergone continuous transformation in dress style and customs.
The traditional image of a Chinese worker wearing a front closure Chinese jacket.
Students of Beijing University, wearing Scottish-checked skirts in the 1950s.
Fashionable young people on the streets in Beijing.
Style distinctions are not only evident between different dynasties, but are also quite pronunced, even in different periods within the same dynasty. The defining characteristics of Chinese clothing are bright colors, skilled craftsmanship, and ornate detail.
Modern Cheongsam Jacket.
Diversity in style can be seen between different ethnic groups, living environments, local customs, lifestyles as well as aesthetic tastes. Chinese folk clothing is deeply rooted in the daily life and activities of the people, with many traditional folk styles and accessories. They embrace embroidered keepsakes, coil hats and raincoats made of natural fiber, not to mention the handmade children's tiger-head hats and shoes as well as pig-head shoes and cat-head shoes.
Tiger Head Hat - handcrafted embroidery design.
The progress of modernization is having an effect on the ethnic character of dress style. However, in rural areas, a wide array of beautiful garments and ornaments are still very much part of the local lifestyle and landscape, which is in direct opposition to city life, where designers and fashion shows shape what city residents are wearing.
Shanghai Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026, takes place from October 9th to 16th. Over 80,000 industry insiders — including thousands of global guests — will gather across the city for a spectacular lineup of first shows, first exhibitions, as well as first unveilings of fashion. More than 1,000 brands will showcase their latest collections across 10 plus iconic fashion landmarks, redefining what’s next in fashion, through bold formats as well as visionary creativity. As a globally influential platform, SS26 will deepen collaborations with international powerhouses, while activating the city’s rich creative energy, thereby driving “FIRST in Shanghai,” as well as creating momentum across new products, and technologies in various business ventures.
Reference:
[1] Chinese Clothing, H. Mei, Cambridge University Press (2011).
For your convenience I have listed below other posts in this series on Chinese textiles:
Chinese Textiles: Amy Clague's Brocade Collection - Part I
Chinese Textiles: Amy Clague's Tapestry Collection - Part I
Chinese Textiles: Amy Clague’s Tapestry Collection - Part II
Chinese Textiles: Amy Clague’s Embroidery Collection - Part I
Chinese Textiles: Amy Clague’s Brocade Collection - Part II
Chinese Clothing: A Historical Overview - Part I
Chinese Clothing: Shenyi and Broad Sleeves - Part I
Chinese Clothing: Shenyi and Broad Sleeves - Part II
Chinese Clothing: A Historical Overview - Part II
Chinese Clothing: A Historical Overview - Part III
Chinese Clothing: A Historical Overview - Part III [1]
After 1840, China entered the modern era. Coastal cities, especially metropolises such as Shangai, with their mixed population of foreign and native residents, led the change towards western style under the influence of European and American fashion trends. Industrialization in textile weaving and dyeing in the West brought about the import of low cost materials, gradually replacing domestic materials made in traditional ways. Fashionable and intricately-made ready-to-wear garments in 'western' styles found their way onto the Chinese market, and large-scale, machine operated dress-making, became more popular than the time-consuming traditional techniques of hand rolling, bordering, inlay and embroidery.
Looking back at the twentieth-century Chinese clothing, we see a wide array of styles of qipao, cheongsam, the Sun Yet-sen uniform, student uniforms, western suits, hats, silk stockings, high heels, lenin jackets, military uniforms, bell-bottoms, flairs, jeans, mini-skirts, bikinis, punk styles, "Guochao" or "National Tide," which fuses traditional Chinese elements with contemporary designs of everyday wear. Key trends included the revival of traditional garments like hanfu and cheongsam, integrated with modern details such as unique tailoring, embroidery, and new materials. This movement reflected a growing national pride and a desire to blend cultural heritage with modern aesthetics.
The qipao now regarded as the typical Chinese dress style, only became popular in the 1920s. Originating as Manchurian woman's dress, incorporating Han clothing techniques and styles of twentieth century western dresses, it has now evolved into a major fashion item within the international fashion industry.
China is a country made up of fifty-six ethnic groups that have continually interacted, and have undergone continuous transformation in dress style and customs.
Style distinctions are not only evident between different dynasties, but are also quite pronunced, even in different periods within the same dynasty. The defining characteristics of Chinese clothing are bright colors, skilled craftsmanship, and ornate detail.
Diversity in style can be seen between different ethnic groups, living environments, local customs, lifestyles as well as aesthetic tastes. Chinese folk clothing is deeply rooted in the daily life and activities of the people, with many traditional folk styles and accessories. They embrace embroidered keepsakes, coil hats and raincoats made of natural fiber, not to mention the handmade children's tiger-head hats and shoes as well as pig-head shoes and cat-head shoes.
The progress of modernization is having an effect on the ethnic character of dress style. However, in rural areas, a wide array of beautiful garments and ornaments are still very much part of the local lifestyle and landscape, which is in direct opposition to city life, where designers and fashion shows shape what city residents are wearing.
Reference:
[1] Chinese Clothing, H. Mei, Cambridge University Press (2011).
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