Saturday, August 16, 2025

A History of Javanese Batik - Islamic Influence [1]
Art Essay

Marie-Therese Wisniowski

Preamble
Preamble
For your interest, I have listed below, other posts on this blogspot that centers on the use of Batik to create artworks:
Nothing Is The Same I & II (Els van Baarle, The Netherlands)
Batik ArtCloth from South-East Asia
Batiks from Kintore
Batiks From Warlpiri
Historical Israeli Batik ArtWorks
A Brief History of Batik
A History of Javanese Batik - Hindu Influence
A History of Javanese Batik - Islamic Influence


A History of Javanese Batik - Islamic Influence [1]
The start of Islam is marked in the year 610, following the first revelation to the prophet Muhammad at the age of 40. Muhammad and his followers spread the teachings of Islam throughout the Arabian peninsula. Around 1500 AD. the Hindu culture was replaced by the rise of Islam. Mohammedan traders from Arabia also brought Islamic preachers. Islamic tradition or Hadiths, the stories of the words and actions of Muhammad and his Companions, prohibits images of Allah, Muhammad and all the major prophets of the Christian and Jewish traditions. More widely, Islamic tradition has also discouraged the figurative depiction of living creatures, especially human beings. As a result, most of the graphic arts were deprived of a considerable source on inspiration. Sculpture, for example, which had previously created magnificant reliefs of human and god forms to decorate Hindu temples, went into decline.

Relief on Candi (temple) Mendut in Central Java from the Hindu-Javanese period, during which sculpture reached a high level of development. Later due to the Islamic tradition of discouraging figurative depiction of living creatures, such sculptures were no longer in vogue.

On the other hand the craft of batik experienced a highlight in its development in this Islamic period. Two reasons may be given for this: firstly, batik did not serve any religious purpose, and secondly, in the batik a method was found getting arround the rule forbidding the depiction of life forms by stylising the motifs (hindu) and by using geometric figures (Islam). In this manner both influences combined in the craft of batik.

Developed in the 18th century, during the Yogyakarta Sultanate, kawung was considered a favorite among the royal families of the Sultanate. Its geometrical patterns represent the fruit of an areca palm tree. In Indonesian, these fruits are called kolang kaling, a delicacy mostly enjoyed during Ramadan. Legend has it that the royal family of Yogyakarta Sultanate loved kawung so much that only those having the royal bloodline were allowed to wear it.

Another geometric batik pattern is parang, which has long, narrow symbols similar to a sword or the letter “S”. This sacred batik originated in the 16th century, in Central Java, during the reign of Sultan Agung of Mataram. It is said that Danang Sutawijaya, the son of Ki Ageng Pemanahan, created parang while observing a stretch of jagged rocks on the south coast. There’s also Indonesian folklore about a Javanese Prince named Panji, who was protected because he was wearing parang batik. This is why many Javanese people regard parang as a symbol of protection and security.

In 1575 the great Mohammedan empire Mataram was founded in Central Java. In the 'kratons', the residences of rulers, batiking continued to be done by women. Until 1600 blue indigo was exclusively for dyeing.

Blue Indigo
Blue indigo batik.

Truntum, a popular type of batik from Solo, was created by Kanjeng Ratu Kencana, the daughter of Sunan Pakubuwana III. People believe that the Queen, saddened by the King’s infidelity, made these star patterns while gazing at the night sky. Impressed by the motif, the King admired his wife‘s diligence. His love for the Queen rekindled and he reconciled with her. This legend popularized truntum as a symbol of reawakened love, making it a favorite among brides and grooms.

Truntum
Truntum.

Then in the 17th and 18th centuries brown soga dyeing developed which considerably contributed to the full development of the batik craft.

18th Century, Soga dyed fabric
18th Century, Soga dyed fabric.

Together with the white of the material and the blue indigo color, a color combination was produced which was typical for Central Java. This color combination has been retained even today in the former kingdoms of Surakarta (Solo) and Yogyakarta, into which Mataram later disintegrated. For various reasons, brighter color combinations developed on the north coast and in the west of Java. At this time there were already a number of motifs which were exclusively reserved for the court, by princely decree. Later this became unwritten law.


Reference:
[1] M. Spée, Traditional and Modern Batik, Kangaroo Press, Kenthurst (1982).

Saturday, August 9, 2025

Fourth International Textile Competition '94 Kyoto - Part V
Selected Works
Textile Art

Marie-Therese Wisniowski

Preamble
For your convenience I have listed below other post in this series:
Fourth International Textile Competition '94 Kyoto - Part I.
Fourth International Textile Competition '94 Kyoto - Part II.
Fourth International Textile Competition '94 Kyoto - Part III.
Fourth International Textile Competition '94 Kyoto - Part IV.
Fourth International Textile Competition '94 Kyoto - Part V


Fourth International Textile Competition '94 Kyoto - Part V [1].
(i) Karin Carlander (Denmark).
Background: Born in 1959, he graduated from hign school in 1978. Jaqueline Durrbach gobelin workshop (1979), Jette Neners weavers workshop (1980-82), the Danish School of Art and Design, Textile Department (1983-1987). Member of the design group OCTO since 1989. Exhibitions: Furniture and Textiles (1990); Interplays "92."

Slide 1:
Taquete
Title: Taquete.
Materials and Technique: Flax, sisal. Taquete.
Size: 5 (H) x 260 (W) x 175 (D) cm.

(ii) Kea-Nam, Cha (Japan, Korean).
Background: Not given in English.

Kea-Nam
Title: Not given in English.
Materials and Technique: Sisal, dye, sythetic resin. Dyeing, resin coating, pressing, cutting.
Size: 100 (H) x 200 (W) x 540 (D) cm.

(iii) Lidia, Choczaj (Poland).
Background: Born in 1970, she studied in the Academy of Fine Arts and Design and the Faculty of Printing in 1994.

Flies
Title: Flies I.
Materials and Technique: Woven on Jacquard loom.
Size: 270 (H) x 90 (W).

(iv) Luciana, Costa Gianello (Italy).
Background: Born in 1936. Teacher of weaving. Exhibitions: National Competition Koine (2nd Award); 3rd Prix International Betonac (Honorable mention).

Skenos-House of the Soul
Title: SKENOS-HOUSE OF THE SOUL.
Materials and Technique: Felt, wood. Personal technique of cutting.
Size: 110 (H) x 200 (W) x 200 (D) cm.

(v) Ellen Morgan Dieter (USA).
Background: Born in 1946, she graduated from Baldwin-Wallace College, Ohio (USA) in 1968. M.F.A. from Kent State University, Ohio, USA.

The Woven Passage
Title: The Woven Passage, #5.
Materials and Technique: Linen, cotton, rayon and silk. Painted warp, supplemental weft, treadled and hand-manipulated pattern, braided edges.
Size: 189 (H) x 80 (W) x 5 (D) cm.

(vi) Sonja Flavin (USA).
Background: Born in 1936. M.F.A. from Rochester Institute of Technology in 1982. Listed in "Who's Who in American Art" in 1987. Since 1992 uses optical fiber as exclusive medium. Exhibtions: Grand Prize "Textiles & Fabrics" (1990).

Light Vessel
Title: Light Vessel.
Materials and Technique: Illuminated optical fiber (magenta light). Knotting, interlacing.
Size: 36 (H) x 13 (W) x 13 (D) cm.

Saturday, August 2, 2025

Black Pigments [1]
Art Resource

Marie-Therese Wisniowski

Preamble
This is the forty-seventh post in a new Art Resource series that specifically focuses on techniques used in creating artworks. For your convenience I have listed all the posts in this new series below:
Drawing Art
Painting Art - Part I
Painting Art - Part II
Painting Art - Part III
Painting Art - Part IV
Painting Art - Part V
Painting Art - Part VI
Home-Made Painting Art Materials
Quality in Ready-Made Artists' Supplies - Part I
Quality in Ready-Made Artists' Supplies - Part II
Quality in Ready-Made Artists' Supplies - Part III
Historical Notes on Art - Part I
Historical Notes on Art - Part II
Historical Notes on Art - Part III
Historical Notes on Art - Part IV
Historical Notes on Art - Part V
Tempera Painting
Oil Painting - Part I
Oil Painting - Part II
Oil Painting - Part III
Oil Painting - Part IV
Oil Painting - Part V
Oil Painting - Part VI
Pigments
Classification of Pigments - Part I
Classification of Pigments - Part II
Classification of Pigments - Part III
Pigments for Oil Painting
Pigments for Water Color
Pigments for Tempera Painting
Pigments for Pastel
Japanese Pigments
Pigments for Fresco Painting - Part I
Pigments for Fresco Painting - Part II
Selected Fresco Palette for Permanent Frescoes
Properties of Pigments in Common Use
Blue Pigments - Part I
Blue Pigments - Part II
Blue Pigments - Part III
Black Pigments

There have been another one hundred and thirteen posts in a previous Art Resource series that have focused on the following topics:
(i) Units used in dyeing and printing of fabrics;
(ii) Occupational, health & safety issues in an art studio;
(iii) Color theories and color schemes;
(iv) Optical properties of fiber materials;
(v) General properties of fiber polymers and fibers - Part I to Part V;
(vi) Protein fibers;
(vii) Natural and man-made cellulosic fibers;
(viii) Fiber blends and melt spun fibers;
(ix) Fabric construction;
(x) Techniques and woven fibers;
(xi) Basic and figured weaves;
(xii) Pile, woven and knot pile fabrics;
(xiii) Durable press and wash-and-wear finishes;
(xvi) Classification of dyes and dye blends;
(xv) The general theory of printing.

To access any of the above resources, please click on the following link - Units Used in Dyeing and Printing of Fabrics. This link will highlight all of the one hundred and thirteen posts in the previous a are eight data bases on this blogspot, namely, the Glossary of Cultural and Architectural Terms, Timelines of Fabrics, Dyes and Other Stuff, A Fashion Data Base, the Glossary of Colors, Dyes, Inks, Pigments and Resins, the Glossary of Fabrics, Fibers, Finishes, Garments and Yarns, Glossary of Art, Artists, Art Motifs and Art Movements, Glossary of Paper, Photography, Printing, Prints and Publication Terms and the Glossary of Scientific Terms. All data bases in the future will be updated from time-to-time.

If you find any post on this blog site useful, you can save it or copy and paste it into your own "Word" document for your future reference. For example, Safari allows you to save a post (e.g. click on "File", click on "Print" and release, click on "PDF" and then click on "Save As" and release - and a PDF should appear where you have stored it). Safari also allows you to mail a post to a friend (click on "File", and then point cursor to "Mail Contents On This Page" and release). Either way, this or other posts on this site may be a useful Art Resource for you.

The new Art Resource series will be the first post in each calendar month. Remember - these Art Resource posts span information that will be useful for a home hobbyist to that required by a final year University Fine-Art student and so undoubtedly, some parts of any Art Resource post may appear far too technical for your needs (skip those mind boggling parts) and in other parts, it may be too simplistic with respect to your level of knowledge (ditto the skip). The trade-off between these two extremes will mean that Art Resource posts will be hopefully useful in parts to most, but unfortunately may not be satisfying to all!


Black Pigments [1]
The common black pigments - ivory, bone, lamp, vine and drop black - all consist of carbon obtained by burning various materials.

Ivory Black
Ivory Black.

Bone Black
Bone Black.

Lamp Black
Lamp Black.

Vine Black.

Drop Black
Drop Black.

They are very fluffy and of low specific gravity. For example, 25 pounds of the same grades of lampblack will fill a sugar barrel; the same barrel will often hold 300 pounds of pigment of average density.

They absorb a considerable amount of oil in terms of weight; however, when computed by volume it is not so much as the weight figures indicate. The carbon blacks are all very poor driers in oil and will retard the drying of a normal film, unless mixed with a siccatie pigment, such as Umber. The soluble salts in the impure members of this group (and in some of the purer ones also) will efflorescence, when the pigment is used as a mortar color or in a fresco; also the fluffy and water-repelling nature of this group makes them less desirable than Mars Black, for most water medium uses. The material specifically called Carbon Black is the most intense in color and tinctorial power of any of this family, but is not used as an artists' pigment for reasons noted (see past and future posts).

Mars Black
Mars Black.

These non-mineral blacks may be grouped as follows:
(i) Pure Carbon: Carbon Black, and Lamp Black.
(ii) Impure Carbon: Animal sources such as Ivory Black, Bone Black etc. Vegetable sources such as vine black and charcoal black.

Frankfort or Drop Black (see above) is made from a great variety of vegetable and animal materials. From the manufacturer's point of view, the difference between Lamp Black and Carbon Black is that Lamp Black is soot or carbon collected by the smudge process, whereas Carbon Black is soot made by direct contact of the flame with a metal plate.
Note: The inferior grades of Lamp Black contain small amounts of greasy materials.

Ivory Black (see above) is the most widely used artists' black and serves well as an all-round black and tinting color. It is the only member of an impure carbon group that is recommended as a permanent artist's color. However, it is one of the worst pigments to use full-strength, or nearly full-strength, as an undercoat in oil paintings: a film of any other pigment laid over black is extremely likely to crack, as will be shown in a future Art Resource post.

Black iron oxide, or Mars Black, as it is commonly known, is a thoroughly trustworthy pigment. Its introduction to the artists' palette is more recent. The native magnetic oxide and blacks made of ground shale, or slate, are too coarse for average pigment use, but they are used industrially to some extent, in water pastes, as motar colors, etc.

Some of the black or blackish effects produced by mixtures of other colors are mentioned in a post on 'Green Pigments.' Very exact matching of blacks on old paintings requires the direct rays of sunlight rather than diffused north light.

Most of the lines of artists' colors now offered center on Ivory Black, Lamp Black, and Mars Black.


Reference:
[1] The Artist's Handbook of Materials and Techniques, R. Mayer (ed. E. Smith) 4th Edition, Faber and Faber, London (1981).